Bridges. I love bridges. There is something inherently beautiful about these structures that are designed to connect people and places. Over my years of traveling the world, I have crossed some of the most beautiful bridges on the planet and cautiously ventured across others.
As a fan of Texas Country Reporter, I have long been fascinated by the one-lane suspension bridge featured in the opening segment of the show — the Regency Bridge. This beautiful bridge spans a remote section of the Colorado River on the Mills-San Saba County line.
It is, perhaps, a little known fact that Texas has more bridges than any other state in the Union. And, of the more than 52,000 bridges in the Lone Star State, the Regency Bridge is the last suspension bridge in the State that is open to automobile traffic. That alone makes it worth a visit.
The iconic suspension bridge gets its name from Regency, a now-abandoned farming community on the Mills County side of the Colorado River. The first bridge built at the location in 1903 collapsed under the weight of a herd of cattle. A second bridge was destroyed by a flood in 1936.
The current Regency Bridge was built in 1939 and repaired and rededicated in 1999. In December 2003, kids shooting off fireworks accidentally started a fire on the wood decking, burning a hole in some of the planks. The bridge was repaired and today remains open to vehicular traffic.
The Regency Bridge is located at the intersection of Mills County Road 433 and San Saba County Road 137, both gravel roads. There is room to park on the Mills and San Saba sides of the bridge. The views from the bridge of the Colorado River and the surrounding countryside are absolutely beautiful.
If you find yourself anywhere near the Regency Bridge, make it a point to take a detour to drive across the bridge and to stop and enjoy the scenery. The bridge does not get much traffic because it has been bypassed by newer paved farm to market roads. That makes it even better and possible to enjoy the bridge and the vistas for long uninterrupted periods.
Caprock Canyons Trailway
On my short list of affordable adventures in the Lone Star State is to bike the Caprock Canyons Trailway. This 64-mile hiking, biking, and equestrian trail stretches from South Plains to Estelline along an abandoned spur of the Fort Worth and Denver Railroad. The trailway is a part of the Rails to Trails Conservancy, an organization that is creating a network of trails around the country from former rail lines.
The Caprock Canyons Trailway runs through one of the most scenic areas of Texas and skirts Caprock Canyons State Park, home to the State’s bison herd. The bison herd is the legacy of Charles Goodnight. This famous cattle rancher rescued several plains bison in 1876 at the urging of his wife at a time when bison were being slaughtered by the thousands.
The vistas at this park are absolutely beautiful. And, the presence of bison lends an Old West charm to the views. There are several locations in the park where you can take short hikes to scenic overlooks. There is indeed something therapeutic about sitting in silence while looking at scenery that just makes you take a deep breath and smile.
While visiting the park, I asked the rangers for advice on how to prepare to bike the trailway. They emphasized the importance of caching water along the way and carrying lots of spare bike tubes. These guys know their stuff. They have seen the best and the worst that has happened to those who come here to bike the trailway.
After visiting the park, my wife Cheryl and I drove to three of the trailheads to get a feel for the terrain. Gazing at the long stretches of trail got me more excited than ever about carving out some vacation time to make this adventure a reality.
After checking out the trailway, we stopped for lunch at Galvan’s Restaurant in Turkey, located a short distance from one of the trailheads. Good choice! We enjoyed a delicious homemade burger in a small restaurant that was so clean you could eat off the floor. The walls are decorated with autographed pics of famous TV western stars. Pretty cool. I recommend Galvan’s if you are ever in this you-got-to-be-going-there part of the Lone Star State.
Looking forward to actually biking the trailway in the near future. Stay tuned.
Biking the Bayfront
My sister and I were just kids when our folks introduced us to Corpus Christi on a family vacation. I confess that I was a bit frightened by the vast expanse of water that seemed to dissolve into the distant horizon a million miles away. And I was also concerned because my sister’s nickname is Bonnie and I remember my Mom singing the old Scottish folk song, “My Bonnie Lies Over the Ocean.” I was afraid that at any moment a wave might scoop Bonnie up in its foamy arms and carry her to a place far away over the ocean.
As a kid, I never expected that one day I would return to the Sparkling City by the Sea and spend seven years of my life there. When I drove down Shoreline Drive for the first time, I felt as though I had found my Shangri-La. Could any place on the planet be as beautiful? The city seemed to be perched on the edge of the world. And, that same vast open water that I had first seen as a kid made the whole world seem like it was within reach. Over the years since then I have stood on beaches and coastlines on the other side of the world and looked back toward Corpus Christi.
On a recent visit, I ventured back to Shoreline Drive to ride my bike. I started near the ship channel where the USS Lexington is permanently moored. There is plenty of parking near the museum area there. I rode south along the beautiful bayfront and also swooped down into the t-heads to ride slowly past the boats. The windy day did not keep the fisherman from casting their rods against the wind. Apparently they too thought that the day was just too nice to stay indoors.
I only rode about eight miles but my intention was not to do a lengthy ride but instead to linger and enjoy the beautiful views — the sky, the sea, the birds and the boats, and the big ships that come here from all over the world. I stopped a lot along the way to just look out and to soak in the views that I first fell in love with so long ago.
I am glad that my folks introduced me to this place when I was a kid and that God allowed me to spend a few years of my life here. Biking the bayfront was a fun and affordable adventure, one that I hope to do again the next time I return to the Sparkling City by the Sea. If you are headed to Corpus Christi anytime soon, take your bike and enjoy a relaxing ride along Shoreline Drive.
The Lone Star Hiking Trail
The Lone Star Hiking Trail is the longest hiking trail in Texas. This 129-mile (including loop trails) National Recreation Trail winds its way through the beautiful Sam Houston National Forest. Last year, a couple of my buddies and I thru-hiked the main 96-mile trail from Richards, Texas all the way to the eastern terminus near Cleveland.
The Lone Star Hiking Trail is indeed a Texas treasure — a heaven for hikers. Over the seven days on the trail we hiked through some of the most absolutely beautiful scenery I have ever seen. Tall pines and majestic oaks accented by blooming dogwood trees. Colorful wildflowers splashed on the pine-needle carpeted trail. Every step of the way held interesting sights. And there is no way to describe the gentle sounds made by the wind plucking notes on tree branches.
Although the terrain is relatively flat, in some sections the trail meanders up and down through miles of forests of pine, oak, and mixed hardwoods. In places, the trail follows winding bayous for miles, often bisected by these natural waterways. Footbridges make it easier to cross boggy sections or deep ravines. And, there are many places where the trail gently slopes upwards for such long distances that you feel the burn in your legs.
Doing this thru-hike does require a few miles of hiking along Farm to Market and Forest Service roads. This is where we encountered so many dogs along the way. Private homes along these country roads, it seems, had their fair share of dogs that sensed our approach and barked smack in an effort to scare us away.
Hiking the trail means factoring in times of rest along the way. These rest times were opportunities for us to sit silently in the woods, allowing us to look up at the sky through the tall pines. We also took advantage of these quiet moments to do a little foot care, to down some extra nutrition, and to study our maps.
Every segment of the trail presented its respective challenges — an incline, crossing a ravine, dense and low-hanging overgrowth, mud, pounding pavement between trailheads, finding a water source or campsite. Each challenge made our trek all the more adventurous.
For several days, the one nagging thought in the back of my mind was how we would cross the East fork of the San Jacinto River. Not knowing how much water was in the river or whether an old log reported by other hikers was still the best way to cross the river made me anxious to get there. Worst case scenario would mean backtracking and taking a long detour. Fortunately, we were able to cross the river by walking across the old partially submerged log.
We found great places to camp along the way, filtered our water, prepared meals on our backpacking stoves, and enjoyed sitting around our campfire in the evenings. When we passed through Huntsville State Park we enjoyed refreshing showers and bought lots of snacks at the park store. Near the end of our hike it rained and rained, so we cut our adventure short by one day and hiked the final 21-miles in the pouring rain.
Hiking the Lone Star Hiking Trail was an unforgettable experience. This trail is indeed a hiker’s heaven. Regardless of whether you only have time for a day hike, an overnight camping trip, or a long-distance trek, you will absolutely love this trail. The trail is very well maintained and the route clearly marked with blazes on the trees. If you are a hiker, consider planning an adventure on the Lone Star Hiking Trail. And if you camp out, you’ll find that the stars at night are indeed big and bright, deep in the heart of Texas.
Biking Stephen F. Austin
Nestled on the banks of the Brazos River, Stephen F. Austin State Park is an easy drive from Houston. This beautiful 663-acre park offers visitors a variety of camping options and 6 miles of hiking and biking trails. As a Texas State Parks Pass holder, I visit this park as often as I can throughout the year.
Any visitor to the park should set aside some time to visit the nearby Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site — the birthplace of Texas. It was at this location in 1836 that representatives of Texas settlements met to make a formal Declaration of Independence from Mexico and where the government of the Republic of Texas was created.
As someone who enjoys mountain biking, the trails at Stephen F. Austin State Park are among my favorite. Although there are only 6 miles of trails at the park, these single track trails are a lot of fun to ride. They are perfect for beginner and intermediate level riders. I generally try to do at least two loops on these winding trails.
One of the things I enjoy most is the opportunity to see wildlife along the trails. There is no shortage of whitetail deer, rabbits, armadillos, barred owls, and a variety of birds. The Brazos Bottom Trail leads to and follows the bluff along the banks of the wide and slow-moving Brazos, the longest river in the Lone Star State. There are a couple of spurs along this trail where you can park your bike and hike down to the river.
Although these trails are fun to ride, I do have to remind myself to slow down and stop occasionally to enjoy the scenic overlooks along the banks of the Brazos or to just listen to the sounds of nature. There is something unquestionably therapeutic about spending time outdoors. The trails at Stephen F. Austin State Park are visitor friendly and just what the doctor ordered for anyone needing to relieve a little stress.
So, whether you enjoy mountain biking, trail running, or just a slow walk through the woods, I encourage you to check out the trails at the park. The park office will provide you with a good and easy-to-read trail map. Honestly, you would have to work really hard to get lost at this park. But I do guarantee that you will get lost in thought as you wander the shaded trails at Stephen F. Austin State Park.
One final note. Remember to stay hydrated as you enjoy the trails at the park. Always carry a water bottle or hydration pack and, if you plan to be out long, a few nutrition bars.
Under Rainy Texas Skies
As a card-carrying Texas backroads adventurer, I look for opportunities to schedule windshield time on my calendar. And because I enjoy driving down Texas backroads, I am not picky when it comes to the weather. In fact, familiar backroads can take on a whole new look when you drive them in the rain.
I know that some folks prefer to stay inside when it rains, and I don’t blame them. There is something undeniably soothing about listening to the falling rain. But, I see rain as a great opportunity to get a new perspective on the sights along Texas backroads. I love how the rain changes the light and makes every color so much more vibrant and dramatic.
On one particular rainy day adventure, I traveled from my home in Katy toward Brookshire. This small town, located a few miles west of Houston, was named for Captain Nathen Brookshire, an early settler who received title to a league of land as a member of Stephen F. Austin’s fifth colony in 1835. The intense rain made my early morning drive look like it was nighttime.
Once I got off the beaten path, the rain lightened up a bit and I was able to slow down and enjoy the sights. As you might imagine, most sane people stayed home so I pretty much had the backroads to myself. The overcast skies and steady rain made this familiar drive look like a totally new experience.
I absolutely love the what’s-around-the-next-bend-in-the-road feeling that I get when the road ahead turns one way or the other. My rainy day drive did not disappoint. Every little road had its own share of surprises for me. The rain did make it a little hard to take pictures but I managed to snap a few shots along the way.
I especially enjoyed driving through Sunnyside, Texas in the pouring rain. A short time later I drove past a little road named Gray Sky — a name more appropriate for the day’s adventure. The old abandoned houses hidden away on these backroads looked even more mysterious in the rain. These old places always stir my imagination. They make me wonder who lived there, where they have gone, and what memories they still carry with them.
Of course, I never tire of seeing windmills and stopping to look down railroad tracks that seem to go on forever. I came across one backroads sign along a bend in the road with two arrows pointing toward each other. Decisions, decisions!
The next time it rains, consider going for a drive down some lonely Texas backroad. The rain will give you a whole new perspective and appreciation for the beauty of the Lone Star State. The older I get the more I love Texas, the place I call home. And, as much as I enjoy traveling the world and seeing amazing and interesting places, there really is no place like home. Texas is indeed a beautiful place both in the sunshine and in the rain. Make it a point to discover the beauty of Texas under rainy skies.
The Church Near Muldoon
There is something about old and abandoned buildings that stirs my imagination and ignites my curiosity. Whenever I venture down Texas backroads, I always look for old houses and buildings — the ones that have been long abandoned and are slowly being reclaimed by the elements. One structure in particular beckoned me to pull off the road just outside of Muldoon, a tiny community with a population of a little more than a hundred residents. It was an old church building with only the vertical section of a cross remaining on the steeple.
As I made my way through the dry overgrowth, I noticed that the front door of the building was open. I grew up in a small town in the days when church buildings remained open all day and, in some cases, all night. In fact, I never recall the door to my childhood home ever being locked when I was growing up. In all of the years I lived at home I never had a house key. At any rate, I was glad to find an open door when I approached the old church building.
Once inside the building, I noticed the few remaining pews on either side of the red-carpeted aisle. Everything in the building was covered with the dandruff of decay. I paused for a moment and tried to imagine what things must have looked like when the building was new and wondered how many brides had walked down the short distance to the altar. I had to remind myself that this old building was not the church, only the building where the church had once met for a season.
The signs that this had once been a place where people studied the Scriptures were evident. Old Sunday School quarterlies littered the floor, some with the fading names of the members written on the covers. Once again, I could not help but wonder about those who had studied those lessons and perhaps made some life-changing decisions in this old country church building. In a way it did not matter so much that these old lesson books were strewn on the floor because what really matters is what the folks who studied here carried away in their hearts.
Standing in the pulpit and looking toward the pews, I wondered about those who had stood in that same spot over the years. How many sermons and weddings and funerals had taken place there? What about special seasonal observances or musical presentations? The history of what happened in that building is lost to all but those who worshiped there. But, without question, so much must have happened in this humble little building throughout the years.
After lingering for a while I made my way slowly down the aisle toward the exit. Once again the open door beckoned me out toward the world at large, the place where we are to live out our faith. And again I wondered about how many people might have left this place a little different than when they walked in, perhaps more determined to love God and love people. That’s really the way we should always leave our places of worship — changed for the better, a little more in love with God, and ready and willing to serve others.
A Texas History Road Trip
Something good happens when you combine book learning with field trips — somehow the things and events that happened in a particular place seem to make more sense. I am a firm believer that being onsite can help folks to gain greater insight. Being in the geographical context of history’s happenings stirs the imagination, stimulates brain activity, promotes conversation, and inspires wonder.
Last week, my friend Brad Flurry and his sons Hunter and Drew joined me for a Texas History road trip. Since we only had a few hours before the boys had to be at football practice, I planned a route to two locations along the Brazos River — San Felipe de Austin and Washington-on-the-Brazos. San Felipe is regarded as the “Cradle of Texas Liberty” and Washington-on-the-Brazos is the place where Texas became Texas.
Before visiting San Felipe, we drove to a spot where the boys could walk down to the Brazos River. This was the perfect setting for talking about the Lone Star State’s longest river, including how it got its name and the role it played in promoting commerce in the early days of Texas. And, of course, it was also a good spot for chucking a few rocks into the river.
San Felipe was the unofficial capital of the colony that Stephen F. Austin founded at this site in 1823. Today, the folks at the San Felipe State Historic Site, a Texas Historical Commission property, guide visitors in understanding the significance of the many historical events that occurred in this community. The site features a hand-dug water well from the period, a museum, and a replica of an old cabin with toys and games from the period.
From San Felipe we drove an hour north to Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site. This is the place where Texas became Texas. In March of 1836, while the Alamo was under siege by Santa Anna’s army, 59 representatives of the Texas settlements met in an unfinished frame building at Washington to make a formal declaration of independence from Mexico. A replica of this building, known as Independence Hall, marks the place where the Texas Declaration of Independence was signed.
From Independence Hall we hiked to a scenic overlook of the Brazos River and talked about the Runaway Scrape of 1836. As Santa Anna’s armies swept eastward from San Antonio, panic set in among the settlements of Texas. Colonists gathered personal possessions, abandoned their properties and headed eastward under difficult conditions. Settlers often waited days to cross the Brazos at Washington. After the Texas victory at the Battle of San Jacinto, settlers slowly returned to their homes.
To stand at the very spot where the Texas Declaration of Independence was signed or where something like the Runaway Scrape occurred does indeed stir the imagination. And, that’s a good thing! It’s far to easy for us to live disconnected from the past, unaware of how and why we are the beneficiaries of the courage and the sacrifices of those who came before us. The best antidote to that is to personally visit the places that shaped our history.
There are no shortages of affordable day trips from wherever you live in Texas that can help you and your kids gain a greater appreciation for the history of the Lone Star State. I hope you’ll hit the road soon and embark on a Texas history road trip.
Back Street Cafe
It’s no secret that I enjoy a good homestyle burger — the kind that you find only in the not-fast-food places tucked away off the beaten path. One thing I know for sure is that you have to be intentional about seeking out eateries that cook delicious burgers, fries, and onion rings. But, if you can navigate past the alluring songs of the fast food sirens, I promise you that you can find a better burger off the beaten path.
In my ongoing search for the most delicious burgers in the Lone Star State, I came across the Back Street Cafe this week. This cafe is located in Sinton, Texas, the county seat of San Patricio County and a popular destination stop for antique shoppers. Sinton is an easy 28-mile drive north of Corpus Christi and can be reached via US highways 77 and 181.
I arrived at the Back Street Cafe for a late lunch while traveling from South Texas to Katy along Highway 77. My smartphone guided me from the highway to the cafe on the corner of South Rachel Avenue and East Borden Street. The ample cafe occupies a building that was previously a pharmacy. The entrance is indeed on the back street — on East Borden.
My first impression was the cleanliness of the place and the small-town-friendliness of the staff. While the cafe offers a variety of delicious home-cooked meal options, I was there for one reason and one reason only — to try one of their hamburgers. I chose the cheeseburger served on a sourdough bun and an order of french fries.
To my surprise, my waitress invited me to enjoy their complimentary bean bar while I waited for my burger. She didn’t have to ask twice. A small bowl of hot pinto beans sprinkled with fresh onions and a piece of cornbread was the perfect appetizer.
As for the burger — well, all I can say is that I hit the jackpot, again! The lettuce and tomatoes were fresh, the meat was hot, and the bun was amazing. As I have said before, a bun can make or break a burger. The sourdough bun was fresh and beyond delicious. And the generous portion of french fries were hot and perfectly crispy. Add a glass of really cold iced tea and I was in burger heaven.
I’m glad that I found the Back Street Cafe and will return the next time I am anywhere near Sinton. Eating a delicious burger is one thing, but enjoying a burger at a place where the wait staff is attentive and friendly makes it an even more enjoyable experience. I hope that you’ll have an opportunity to visit the Back Street Cafe. They are open Monday through Friday only from 11:00 AM to 8:30 PM. That’s more than enough time to eat and enjoy one of their delicious burgers!
Encino, Texas
Every now and then when I find myself somewhere between where I’m coming from and where I am headed I just can’t help myself — I have to turn off the main road to explore a back road. Even if I drive only a few miles down that road, I make new discoveries and always find interesting things to photograph.
That’s what happened while recently traveling to South Texas. My wanderlust kicked in and beckoned me off the beaten path. So, I slowed down and turned on to a caliche backroad near the rural community of Encino. Located eighteen miles south of Falfurrias on Highway 281, Encino is regarded as a “census designated place” and not a town because it does not have a municipal government. You don’t even have to blink to miss it.
In 1832, a man named Luciano Chapa acquired a Mexican land grant called La Encantada y Encina del Pozo, translated “Enchanted Place and Live Oak in a Hole.” The name of the grant reportedly was derived from a large live oak around which animals seeking shade wore down the land under the tree. In the early 1900s, the Encino community was established at the site as a roundup point for cattle raised by Mexican cattlemen.
A historical marker erected near Encino by the Texas Historical Commission reads as follows:
El Encino del Poso
In this vicinity once stood a magnificent live oak tree that was an early landmark on the South Texas Plains for many years, noted for its size and its wide canopy. It was located in a large hollow created by livestock that gathered beneath its branches and by winds that eroded the exposed soil. El Encino del Poso was a landmark for early trails and land grants. It also served as the location of a stagecoach station and as the basis for naming Encino. The tree died in the 1890’s, before the formation of Brooks County, the victim of an extended drought.
Today, the backroads near Encino are accented by evidence of the passage of time — reminders that this is still hard country to tame. The proof is there in the form of weathered windmills, old shelters that look like they are melting into the brush, and assorted rusting remnants left behind by a previous generation. These old time-tarnished sights are starkly juxtaposed against a few newer homes and vehicles and farming and ranching implements.
In 1996, families in the area fought to keep the local elementary school open when the Brooks County Independent School District was looking for ways to cut costs from their overburdened budget. Even families without kids got involved in the fight to save the elementary school established in 1949.
The Dallas Morning News quoted the school principal as saying, “We don’t have problems with gangs. We don’t have problems with profanity. We don’t have problems they have everywhere else. The parents are trying to keep these kids in this type of environment as long as possible.” The involvement of families in the fight to keep their school reminds us that parents in small and large communities share a common concern about the welfare of their kids.
The next time you find yourself traveling south on Highway 281, take a moment to slow down and look to the left and to the right as you drive past Encino. While Encino and other tiny Texas towns may not look like much from the road, there is more there than meets the eye! Encino is home to families that have lived there for generations and who care very much about the next generation.
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