The ghost town of Terlingua is located in the heart of the Chihuahuan Desert, one of the most rugged and hostile environments in Texas. The name of the town is derived from the Spanish words “tres lenguas” meaning “three tongues.” The discovery of quicksilver in the mid-1880s turned Terlingua from a sleepy little village into a town of a thousand-plus residents.
By 1913, Terlingua had a dependable water supply, mail delivery, somewhat reliable telephone service, a hotel, and a physician. Sometime in 1914, St. Agnes Church, also known as Chisos Mission, was established and became the focal point of the mining town. Itinerant priests held services at the church once a month and also officiated at baptisms, weddings, and funerals.
Church records indicate the priests adopted the Terlingua Cemetery. The burial ground is listed as St. Agnes Chisos Cemetery on church records but the official death records continued to list it as the Terlingua Cemetery. And although the town was segregated with Mexican families living east of the company store and Anglo families to the west, both Mexicans and Anglos were laid to rest in the same cemetery.
The adobe building was constructed on a raised stone foundation on the side of a hill overlooking the town. The building has survived the ravages of time and remains an iconic symbol of the importance of faith in this remote place. The interior is completely unpretentious — offering worshipers hard wooden benches, a weathered pine floor, painted adobe walls, and a simple altar. The spiritual comfort the faithful have received here, however, more than makes up for any lack of creature comforts.
I hope to return to Terlingua to learn more about the old church and its history. Suffice it to say that St. Agnes Church has a beauty all its own. We’ll never know how many people over the years found solace, refuge, and the help they longed for inside the walls of this old church. St. Agnes Church remains as an enduring reminder that faith is important and can thrive in the harshest of places.
Mamie’s Kitchen
Pattison, a small town located in southern Waller County, was named after James Tarrant Pattison. This early settler built his plantation house on a tract of land he purchased in 1839. Pattison’s house served as a stage-coach stop on the Atascosito Road, a military highway established by the Spaniards sometime before 1757.
According to the Pattison family, there is a little more to the story. As they tell it, Pattison and a rival plantation owner each wanted the rights to name the town. So, they decided to match their favorite horses in a race. They agreed that the winner would have the privilege of naming the proposed town after himself. The rest is history.
Pattison is located west of Houston and north of Brookshire near the junction of Farm Roads 1458 and 359. Pattison is a small town that is home to Mamie’s Kitchen — a restaurant that serves dishes big on flavor. This small town eatery is named after Mamie Wilpitz Wilson. For more than 40 years, Mamie and her husband John operated Wilson’s Grocery in Pattison. This grocery store became a favorite gathering place for locals.
Miss Mamie earned a reputation as a woman who cared about her neighbors. That’s because she and her husband John had an open door policy that endeared them to others. Mamie, in fact, became known as an encourager who was always ready to listen and to give sage counsel to kids and adults alike. She was regarded as a mother by the folks of her community.
Mamie’s Kitchen, a fairly new restaurant in Pattison, was named in honor of Miss Mamie. Their aim is “to reclaim the feeling of years ago, by offering food and a warm and comforting atmosphere to all who enter this place.” After stopping to eat at Mamie’s a couple of months ago, I have returned to Pattison more than once to eat at Mamie’s.
My first meal at Mamie’s was their Christmas Dinner. Oh my soul, it was delicious. I shared a table with a bunch of friends. Each of us received a plate heaping with turkey and dressing and the works. Every bite was filled with home-cooked deliciousness. But, as good as my turkey dinner was, I knew I would have to return to eat a burger.
On my return visit, I ordered a hamburger with a side of onion rings. This is one big burger. Those of you who follow my blog know that I have a first-bite rating when it comes to trying a new burger. If the first bite is good then all is well. The first bite was indeed good. As a matter of fact, it was better than good. And the onion rings were oh so amazing. Mamie’s is also known for its fabulous pies. So, I forced myself to eat a piece of pecan pie infused with slivers of almonds. Wow!
Because we are all busy it’s easy to fall into a tired routine of eating at the same fast food joints or chain restaurants. Don’t get stuck in that rut. Get out and look for interesting places to eat near you. Make it a point to not judge a book by its cover. Take a chance on a place you might otherwise pass by. You just might find a culinary treasure like Mamie’s Kitchen — a place that will delight your palate and make your taste buds think they won the lottery.
Terlingua Cemetery
Terlingua is one of the most fascinating places to visit in the Lone Star State. If you want to see this old mining town, then you have to adjust your compass settings to off-the-beaten-path. What remains of Terlingua is nestled between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park in far southwest Texas.
The name Terlingua is derived from the Spanish words “tres” and “lenguas,” meaning “three tongues.” Some folks say three tongues refers to Native American, Spanish, and English — the three languages spoken in the early days of the region. Others insist that the name refers to the three forks of Terlingua Creek. Either way, Terlingua is a cool name that somehow fits this rugged and hard place.
At the turn of the twentieth century, Terlingua became a flourishing mining town that yielded copious amounts of mercury, called quicksilver at the time. Today, Terlingua is a ghost town — the most visited ghost town in Texas. The town still has a few residents who live among abandoned ruins slowly being reclaimed by wind and weather. Visitors will find unique lodging options, a few places to eat, art galleries, a trading company, and a whole lot of vast open spaces and endless skies.
One of the most interesting places in Terlingua is the old cemetery that dates back to the 1900s. Workers who lost their lives in the mines, victims of the influenza epidemic of 1918, gunfighters who were seconds too slow on the draw, and early residents are all buried there. Every year in November, folks gather at the cemetery to celebrate Day of the Dead and to offer their respect to the departed.
Walking slowly among the old graves is a sobering experience — the kind that makes you reflect on just how hard life is in this remote and rugged land. Names of the departed etched on weathered wooden crosses are no longer legible. Creosote, ocotillo, and cactus cling to life among the rocks that cover the graves. Plastic flowers and miscellaneous mementos placed on graves are the only indications that some of the dead are not yet forgotten.
The Terlingua Cemetery is a time-capsule. Every grave holds secrets and stories that will never be told. Visitors can only speculate about the deceased and what their daily lives must have been like in days when quicksilver turned this region from a sleepy little village into a community of a couple of thousand — and eventually into a ghost town.
Even though Terlingua is out of the way and far from just about any place in the Lone Star State, it’s definitely worth visiting. And, when in Terlingua, take a quiet and meditative stroll through the historic Terlingua Cemetery. You’ll be reminded that we are only here for a season and then we too will be laid to rest somewhere, maybe even in an old cemetery like the one in Terlingua. As for me, it doesn’t matter where you bury me as long as it’s in Texas.
Novrozsky’s Hamburgers Etc
I discovered Novrozsky’s Hamburgers Etc on a recent road trip to Orange to visit the fascinating old Farmers Mercantile, a general store that has served the people of the area for almost 90 years. Hungry for a good burger, I asked Siri to find places to eat near me. Novrozsky’s topped the list. The name alone made me curious so I entered the address into Google maps and headed in their direction.
The original Novrozsky’s restaurant was founded in 1982 in Beaumont. Today, they have locations through Southeast Texas, including Orange. According to their website, they pride themselves “on serving the most delicious and satisfying burgers in Texas.” Another reason I had to check this place out for myself.
The Novrozsky’s restaurant in Orange is housed in a modest and nondescript building with only the name Novrozsky’s on the front. No problem! As someone who enjoys sleuthing out a good burger, I was far more interested in what I would find inside the building.
I arrived well past the lunch crowd and walked right up to the counter and ordered their Bacon Cheddar Burger with all of the trimmings on a jalapeño bun along with a side order of hand-battered onion rings. Novrozsky’s hamburgers are made with Nolan Ryan beef — 100% all natural, hormone-free beef raised right here in the Lone Star State.
I filled my styrofoam cup with raspberry iced tea and waited for my burger. Looking around, I noticed that I was not the only person interested in having a burger for lunch. My burger arrived with a heaping order of onion rings. If the aroma was any indication, I knew this was destined to be a mighty good meal.
Of course, the first bite always tells the story and my first bite was not disappointing. Oh my soul! This was truth in advertising — a truly delicious and satisfying burger. If it had been possible I would have eaten two of these fabulous burgers. As for the onion rings — unbelievably delicious! The onion rings were a meal in themselves.
The only thing that disappointed me was the last, moist, delicious bite. Not because it did not taste as good as the first bite but because I did not want for this meal to end. It was that good. I give Novrozsky’s absolutely high marks in every burger regard. You can bet that I will stop at Novrozsky’s again the next time I find myself anywhere near one of their many locations in Southeast Texas.
Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest
The Chihuahuan Desert is one of the most beautiful places in Texas. The expansive spaces, distant silhouetted hills, distinctive desert flora, deep in the heart of Texas kind of skies, and mesmerizing chiaroscuro splashed across the faces of desert mesas all work together to create an iconic Texas vista. This is a place like none other in the Lone Star State. And this is the setting for the Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest.
The Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest is a mountain bikers dream come true. Sponsored by Desert Sports, Big Bend Ranch State Park, and Lajitas Resort, this annual mountain bike endurance fest draws mountain bikers from far and wide. Dirt lovers from novice to expert come to enjoy three days of guided rides on some of the best mountain biking trails in the country. Evening activities, music, food, and the opportunity to make lots of new friends make this a fun event.
My friend James Meredith and I registered for the bike fest at the last minute — and I am so glad we did. The drive from Houston to Big Bend Ranch State Park reminded us that in Texas you measure travel distance by hours rather than miles. We scored a campsite at the Maverick Ranch RV Resort, base camp for the event, and had an unforgettable adventure camping out, cooking out, and riding some amazing single track trails.
I am still fairly new to the mountain biking world. No matter. Riders can choose a ride suited to their abilities from a tantalizing menu of guided rides. I will confess that I felt like I bit off a little more than I could chew on our first day of riding. But, I did manage to finish the 25-mile ride through the rugged desert hills. Our second day of 20-plus mile riding took us down more amazing trails in the park.
I am especially grateful for trail guides Karen Hoffman Blizzard (a contributing writer to Texas Parks and Wildlife magazine) and David Heinicke (head naturalist at Brazos Bend State Park), two of many trail guides assigned to each of the rides. They not only gave me lots of good riding advice, they encouraged me every mile of the way. Karen reminded me that the bike fest is not a race but a ride meant to be enjoyed. She was right. And even though my legs were burning and my heart was pumping hard, I enjoyed every minute on the trail.
The Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest is an annual event offered on Presidents’ Day Weekend in February. Registration is limited to 500 riders. The best bike companies in the nation are present and allow riders to test ride their bikes. And, sponsoring bike companies from around the state set up shop at trailheads and intersections to provide repair services.
The Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest benefits the Big Bend Trails Alliance — a local, non-profit organization that helps create and maintain these famous West Texas trails for mountain biking, hiking, and horseback riding. Kudos to the trails alliance for doing an amazing job of keeping these trails in excellent condition.
If you are a mountain biker, I encourage you to check out this amazing bike fest. I promise you that you won’t be disappointed. James and I have already made plans to return next year along with more of our buddies from Katy. We agree that the Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest is one of the best adventures in Texas. I hope you’ll check it out for yourself.
The Church Near Altair
The Painted Churches of Texas are high on my list of favorite road trip destinations. Several of the best examples of these historic structures are clustered in the vicinity of Schulenburg. These churches represent some of the very best examples of German and Czech architecture in the Lone Star State. They have survived because of the loving concern of their respective congregations.
Every now and then I come across abandoned churches on my road trips — structures that are falling apart because they no longer have anyone to maintain them. One such structure is located along Highway 71 south of the tiny community of Altair. When I first drove past the old building with the wide-open doors, I had to turn around to check things out for myself.
The first thing I noticed was the cornerstone, indicating that this now-abandoned building was once home to Southpoint Baptist Church. According to the cornerstone, Southpoint was organized in 1883, the same year that the University of Texas opened its doors in Austin for its inaugural session.
Inside, the building was filled with jumbles of junk — odds and ends no longer of any use. A few remaining seats, some preschool furniture in a side room, an old podium, and some Sunday School quarterlies scattered among the debris. The oldest quarterly I found was dated 1926 and the latest was dated 2010.
You can’t walk into an old building like this without letting your imagination off its leash. Mine certainly ran wild in this old place. I wondered about the folks who put on their Sunday best and made their way to this location through the years — walking, on horseback, perhaps carriages, and later in automobiles.
Looking toward the now-silent pulpit, I wondered about the sermons preached in this place. What had those who stood behind the pulpit shared to comfort the flock, especially during the dark days of two world wars? How much hope was dispensed here and who had left this place determined make the world a better place?
Just before I walked out the doors, I noticed an offering envelope among the decaying dandruff of this old building. The name of the giver was scrawled in cursive letters across the face of the envelope along with the amount he had given. Offerings like this are what kept the building in repair and likely met needs beyond the modest little corner lot on which the church is situated.
The church building now sits empty and is slowly being reclaimed by moth and rust and decay. It is no longer a destination for worshipers, only a curiosity to those who travel down Highway 71. In reality, the only thing of value that remains is what the folks who worshiped here did to live out their faith in their community.
I’m glad I pulled over to explore the old building. The clock has now stopped ticking on the life of this old church that survived more than a hundred years of Texas history. I hope that someone who attended took the time to record at least some of the history of this old church. I, for one, would love to know more about Southpoint — and other places like this tucked away on Texas back roads.
Texas Outdoor Musical
If you live in Texas, you should add Palo Duro Canyon State Park to your list of must-see places in the Lone Star State — not only to enjoy the magnificent beauty of the canyon, but to see the outdoor musical drama “Texas.” This musical romance of Panhandle history will fill you with Texas pride. Now in its 51st season, “Texas” is even better than I remember when I first saw it in its 5th season.
This musical drama, set in an outdoor amphitheater dwarfed by the thousand-foot walls of Palo Duro Canyon, was born in the heart of Margaret Harper. After reading an article in Reader’s Digest about a playwright named Paul Green who specialized in telling the history of a region in magnificent outdoor settings, Harper wrote to Green about the beauty of the Palo Duro Canyon. The rest is history.
The musical is a high-energy production filled with all of the things that make a story interesting, including conflict and romance. From the start, you are drawn into the story by a lone rider carrying a huge Texas flag, riding at full gallop along the edge of the canyon. And then it begins, the dancing and singing and the unfolding story of how the Panhandle was settled. One interesting side-note is that Benny Tahmahkera, the actor who plays Quanah Parker, the last Chief of the Comanches, is an actual descendent of Quanah Parker.
When my wife Cheryl and I sat through a performance last summer, at one point the wind picked up and we could smell the coming of rain. It’s happened before in this outdoor setting. As the nervous audience looked at the stage and at the dark clouds overhead, the actors on stage were lamenting a West Texas drought that threatened their crops. And then, the first drops of actual rain fell from the sky at the exact moment that Calvin Armstrong, a young homesteader, received word that it was raining and the drought was over. You can’t plan stuff like that!
There is so much more to tell about this beautiful story. So, plan now to see it this year. The new season starts in June and ends in mid-August with performances every day of the week except Mondays. Visit the Texas Show website to book your tickets. And, take a few extra bucks with you and enjoy a heaping plate of grub at the Chuck Wagon Bar-B-Que. Regardless of whether you are from Texas, you’ll enjoy this family friendly show with a cool ending you’ll have to see for yourself!
San Jacinto State Historic Site
The San Jacinto Battleground State Historic Site preserves the history of the most important event in Texas history — our independence from Mexico. On April 21, 1836, an outnumbered Texian Army defeated the forces of Mexican General Antonio López de Santa Anna on the plains of San Jacinto. With shouts of “Remember the Alamo” and “Remember Goliad,” the Texian Army secured their decisive victory in only 18 minutes!
The San Jacinto Monument, built for the battle’s centennial in 1936, honors all those who fought for Texas independence. Rising 570 feet above the surrounding plains, the Monument is the world’s tallest war memorial, standing 15 feet taller than the Washington Monument in Washington DC. A massive 220-ton Lone Star adorns the top of the towering column.
Housed within the base of the Monument is the impressive San Jacinto Museum of History. This must-see museum houses thousands of objects and manuscripts that span 400 years of history. The Jesse H. Jones Theatre, also housed in the base of the Monument, features a short video on Texas history.
I especially enjoyed the 500-foot elevator ride to the observation deck that sits beneath the Lone Star of Texas at the top of the Monument. The observation deck offers great views of the surrounding area as well as of Battleship Texas. Information panels at each window help to orient and inform you about the surrounding vistas.
This historic site is sacred ground in Texas — and rightly so. The Texas Veterans Association and the Sons and Daughters of the Republic of Texas helped to raise the money to purchase the land and to build the Monument. Prominent Houstonian Jesse H. Jones, who served as President Roosevelt’s Secretary of Commerce, also aided in the development of the historic site.
The San Jacinto Battleground State Historic Site is located in La Porte, just a short drive from Houston. The Monument and Museum are open daily (except for Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, and Christmas Day) from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM. The museum is free to all visitors but there is a modest charge to see the movie and to ride the elevator to the observation floor. When you visit, plan also to tour Battleship Texas, located just a minute or two by car from the Monument.
Royers Round Top Café
Round Top, a popular tourist destination, is one of the smallest incorporated communities in the Lone Star State. This tiny town has a rich history influenced by English and German settlers. The family of Stephen Townsend was the first to settle in the area in 1826. This family bears the distinction of having sent more men to the Battle of San Jacinto than any other family.
Joel Robinson, a resident of Round Top, also fought in the Battle of San Jacinto. After the Texan army defeated the Mexican forces on the plains of San Jacinto on March 21, 1836, the Mexican General Antonio López de Santa Anna was nowhere to be found. Robinson was assigned to the small detachment of men who searched for and captured the defeated general on the day after the decisive battle.
In the 1840s, a German man named Alwin H. Soergel, settled in the Round Top area. This talented author, musician, and historian built a white house with an octagonal tower — giving rise to the name Round Top. Soergel’s home served as the United States Post Office for the tiny community as early as 1847.
Today, Round Top has a population of fewer than one-hundred residents. Even so, this tiny community draws visitors from around the world. Round Top is an internationally recognized cultural center for the arts with a 1,200-seat concert hall at Festival Hill, the permanent home of the Texas Festival Orchestra.
Round Top’s vintage downtown is also a tourist draw. Henkel Square features a variety of shops and galleries housed in restored structures originally built by English and German pioneers to the area. Of course, the heavy tourist traffic explains why there are so many historic bed-and-breakfasts in Round Top.
On my continuing search for delicious hamburgers in the Lone Star State, I visited Royers Round Top Café — “a Texas country bistro serving gourmet comfort food.” This café is famous for their delicious handmade pies, which have made their way to the White House. How cool is that! But, I visited Royers to sample their burger and then to chase it all down with a tall glass of iced tea and a slice of pecan pie.
I ordered the Café’s Burger — a handmade burger boasting a half-pound of local beef served with all the trimmings between a toasted sourdough bun with a side of hand-cut fries. All it took was the first bite to convince me this was one delicious burger. As for the pecan pie, I think it was made in heaven. No wonder folks come from all over the place to eat at Royer’s. Not only was the food great, the wait staff was very attentive and helpful.
If you have not yet visited Round Top, add it to your list. You’ll enjoy strolling through the various interesting shops with their eclectic wares. And, be sure to time things so that you can stop by Royers for lunch. It’s a popular place so you might have to wait for a few minutes on the front porch. But, don’t be impatient and drive off. This place is definitely well worth the wait.
Farmers Mercantile
Farmers Mercantile is a Texas time capsule — an old general store where almost 90 years of memories compete with merchandise for shelf space. You can feel the past the second you walk through the front door and step onto the old wooden slats that cover the original dirt floor. Once inside you realize that you are standing in a place like few others in the Lone Star State.
Jo Harris along with her mother Lou and brother Bubba are the latest generation to run the old store located in Orange. This historic old town is situated on the West bank of the Sabine River, the waterway that separates Texas and Louisiana. The mercantile occupies a building that was originally a Buick dealership. Jo’s great grandfather bought the place in 1927 and opened his general store in April of the following year.
Five generations of the Harris family have kept the old store running. The store has weathered the Great Depression and other economic lows through the years. However, Jo explained to me that the only reason they weathered the damage of Hurricane Ike in September 2008 was because of the kindness of the community.
The two-plus feet of flood waters dumped by Hurricane Ike rushed into the store and destroyed half a million dollars worth of merchandise. After the flood waters receded, Jo walked in to find the floors covered in inches of mud. Without any insurance to cover the cost of the damage, Jo wondered if the end of Farmers Mercantile had finally come.
And then, something remarkable happened. The people of the community and surrounding farms rallied to the aid of the Harris family. They told Jo and her family that they would help them clean up the mess and get things back in order because Farmers Mercantile was too important to the community. And that’s exactly what they did. Seven days later, Jo and her family opened their doors once again for business.
Today, every shelf in the place is chock-full of the most interesting things — the kind of this-and-that kind of stuff that farming folks need. You’ll find garden supplies, seeds of every variety, corn shuckers, sausage stuffers, hand churns, straw hats, cast iron cookware, rope, saddles, wash tubs, bed bug poison, kerosene lamps, coolers, livestock feed, and much more. The store is, in fact, the oldest seller of Lone Star Feeds in Texas.
The walls are adorned with almost ninety years worth of bric-a-brac — advertising signs, garden and farming implements, leftover automobile fan belts from the days when the Buick dealership occupied the place, assorted framed items, and other stuff. The most treasured is an old clock advertising Calumet Baking Powder. Jo’s grandfather won it in a contest after selling a full barrel of the brand’s baking powder. The clock remains exactly where her grandfather hung it on the wall.
There is one more thing that makes Farmers Mercantile a special place to the folks of the area — and that is the customer service. I enjoyed listening to Jo answer questions about seed and fertilizer and rat poison. Jo and her family know their stuff. They can advise you about what to plant and when to plant it and even tell you how to deal with bed bugs. In the hour-plus that I spent with Jo I was impressed by her knowledge and even more by her concern for every person who walked through the door.
The world outside the Farmers Mercantile will continue to change. There is no doubt about it. However, in this day of constant motion and change, I find it comforting that there are still places like the Farmers Mercantile where what happens inside remains the same. Everyone who walks through the doors can expect to find the same unchanging and time-treasured values that have made this a special place.
Plan to visit Farmers Mercantile and to take your kids along. Jo and her family will be happy to show you around and to answer any questions about what you see on their shelves. It might surprise your kids to see a business that has survived for so long without any modern conveniences — no air conditioning in the summer and only a central stove to heat the place in the winter. It won’t take you long to discover why this place is valued by the folks around Orange and why it continues to endure.
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