Terlingua

by

Summer Projects at the Cabin

My summer has been crazy busy — which makes it challenging to find time to travel ten-hours from Katy to our cabin. To make the trip worth it, I have to find no less than a couple of free days to spend there, travel time not included. And in order to get things done I have to be very intentional about taking the supplies I need or coordinating delivery from McCoy’s in Alpine.

So far this summer, we have managed to get quite a few things done. Last month, my friend Paul Kitchen spent a few days with me at the cabin. We worked from first light to last light to complete a number of projects on my list. Paul is a super-handyman and knows how to get things done.

This month, my friend Doyle Lowry traveled to the cabin from Oklahoma to help me check a few more items off my list. Doyle and I have shared lots of adventures together, including backpacking the Lone Star Hiking Trail, completing the Texas Water Safari, and summiting five of the seven named peaks in Texas that are higher than 8,000 feet.


I was happy to have our new water storage tank installed by my friend Mark Chiles. I met Mark years ago at Terlingua Community Church. His ranch is about 20 miles from our place. He is the local rep for Tanks-A-Lot and had the tank we needed. This tank was a gift from Kingsland Baptist Church in Katy on the occasion of my 20th year on staff.


A few hours after Mark installed the tank the monsoon rains came roaring in. What timing! And, with a few more light rains, we now have 400-gallons of water in this 1,200 gallon storage tank. Water catchment and stewardship in the desert is important. Grateful to have this tank which now gives us 3,400 gallons of water storage capacity.


Months ago I built a perimeter wall to create a courtyard in front of our guest cabin. I added a counter area for cooking, installed an outdoor fireplace, and added firewood storage. The next step in the plan was to lay pavers in the courtyard. McCoy’s delivered my order of pavers earlier in the month while I was out of the country.


Doyle and I spent an entire day leveling the ground and then laying the pavers in the courtyard. Working under the shade of the solar panel porch sure helped as the temperature was over 100-degrees. After laying the pavers Doyle swept sand between the joints to lock everything down. Wow! Love the results and can’t wait to get the outdoor table and chairs to the cabin.


The next thing on the list was building a foot-bridge over the swale on our north tract. A couple of years ago, I dug a 300-foot long swale and berm to slow down and retain rainwater on the property. The swale comes alive with native wildflowers in the Spring — a really pretty sight. The new foot-bridge will make it easier to take supplies in our Gorilla cart for some of the permaculture projects we are doing on the north tract.


Doyle helped me complete the final 660-feet of fencing on the north tract. The cedar posts and metal t-posts have been in place for two years. I bought the final two rolls of field fence for this tract at Tractor Supply in Katy. Doyle and I managed to stretch, install, and clip-in both rolls under the searing Big Bend summer skies. Took us two days and gallons of Gatorade but we got it done.


We also installed a gate along the fence on our southwest tract. This gate is across the road from our driveway onto the property where we have our cabins. This will give us easy access to the area where we will add some camping cabanas in the future.


Finally, Big Bend Telephone stopped by to upgrade our off-grid internet service. We have several neighbors who use Starlink but we have been very happy with BBT. Last month a hail storm knocked our dish out of alignment and BBT dispatched a crew to stop by and get us back on line — important because of our security cameras.


Our off-grid retreat is coming along a step at a time. The work is therapeutic for me. After a hard day of work I enjoy sitting by the fire pit to enjoy the cool breezes, the sunset, and then the magnificent star-crowded skies of Big Bend. Hope to get back out West in a few weeks. Grateful for my friend Doyle and his willingness to join me for summer projects at the cabin.

by

Work at the Cabin is Never Done

As I have often said, the work at the cabin is never done. And in this season of my life that is a good thing. The older I get, the more intentional I have to be to stay active. Staying active is essential to, in the words of Toby Keith, not letting the old man in. The old man, it seems, is always knocking at my door.

I made a quick trip to the cabin primarily to have a required service upgrade from Big Bend Telephone. Yes, we do have internet service at our off-grid cabin thanks to the marvels of modern technology. The upgrade however, did not happen. Troubles with a tower diverted technicians to that location and left me having to reschedule the upgrade. No worries. I live with Plan B, C, and D in my back pocket.

I have to make the most of every trip to the cabin, so I was prepared with my list of pending projects. My friend Paul Kitchen accompanied me on this trip. Paul is my missions ministry resident and also teaches a trade program for teens in the town of Brookshire just west of Katy. He is a hard working and talented guy.

Whenever I need to haul a big load of supplies to the cabin, my friend James Meredith always loans me one of his trailers. The week before the trip, Paul and I and our buddy Mike Aronson loaded decking, t-posts, a heavy roll of field fence, and a partial cord of firewood into the trailer. James used his skid steer to top off our load with heavy cedar logs provided by my friend Jeff Smith.


Paul and I met at 6:00 AM on Monday and went to James’ MTNest Farm in Pattison to pick up the trailer. We then headed down the two-lane road toward San Felipe and onto Interstate 10 for the ten-hour drive to the cabin. We stopped at Buc-ee’s in Luling to top off the fuel tank and to make some adjustments to the load for a smoother ride. Buc-ee’s is a must stop on any Texas road trip!


Moments after we arrived at the cabin the monsoon rains greeted us with thunder and lightning and refreshing rain. So, we settled in for a bite to eat and watched the storm. Storms in the desert have a majesty all their own. When you experience a desert storm you can better understand John Denver’s lyric, “You fill up my senses, like a storm in the desert.”


The following morning we off-loaded the heavy cedar logs without the use of a skid steer. I will use these posts when we start building our primitive campsite cabanas on our tracts to the west of the cabin. These sites will help us when we host our annual campouts for boys from fatherless homes and for men recovering from alcohol and drug addictions.


After carefully stacking the heavy cedar logs, Paul and I built a 16-foot long firewood rack in front of the guest cabin courtyard. This rack will hold firewood to stock the camping cabanas once they are completed. Campfires are important because they are a gathering place where folks can have conversations and share stories. That’s why we want to always have a big supply of firewood.


Last month a hail storm did some damage on the property. Two of our security cameras took a direct hit along with the dish that provides our internet. The hail also knocked out a window screen at the guest cabin but fortunately did not break the window. I asked Paul if he could build awnings for the two small windows at the guest cabin to protect them from future hail storms. Using scraps of lumber leftover from previous projects, Paul pulled it off and constructed heavy-duty awnings.


The next project on the list was decking the area in front of my shipping container shop. Paul also took on this project while I caulked and painted the window awnings. Really pleased with the result. This is the area where I set up my sawhorse workbench and enjoy working on projects under the beautiful Big Bend sky. The deck is a huge upgrade.


The final project on this list was to complete a 350-foot long section of fence along one side of our southwest tract. The cedar posts and t-posts have been in place for a few months, just waiting for the fence. Paul and I stretched and installed the fencing and then topped it off with a strand of barbed wire. Only 2,640 more feet to go! Will get it done a bit at a time.


And now, I am back home and need to start packing for my upcoming trip to Türkiye. Don’t yet know when I will make it back to Big Bend but grateful for the time Paul and I spent working on projects at the cabin. This was one more opportunity to keep the old man out!

by

A Chihuahuan Desert New Year

It’s hard to believe that another year has come and gone. Time seems to fly by faster and faster the older I get. I told a friend that at my age I can’t afford to kill time because time is killing me. I have to make the most of every day.

Once again, Cheryl and I celebrated — or rather slept through — the transition to the New Year out at our off-grid cabin. With a waning moon, the stars were definitely big and bright deep in the heart of Texas. And the nights were cold out in the Chihuahuan Desert where the creosote offers little protection from the north winds.

We headed to the cabin after spending a couple of days with my 95 year-old Dad down in South Texas. Still in great health and with a mind as sharp as ever, Dad is my hero and inspiration. He is an eternal optimist and has remained curious about the world — although he is now resigned to exploring new places by way of his favorite travel shows.

We were excited to meet the Perry family, friends from church, staying at our guest cabin. This was their first visit to Big Bend National Park and they had some fun days planned for their girls. We had the opportunity to share a pleasant night around the campfire before they headed back to Katy.

As always, we had a list of projects, a truck full of materials, and only a few days to make a little more progress on our off-grid paradise. So, we wasted no time.


The first thing on my list was to start on the outdoor cooking area under the solar porch at our guest cabin. The plan is to build half walls clad in corrugated tin to serve as a wind block. I built a cooking counter out of recycled lumber and coated it with spare urethane. I will complete the half-walls on our next visit and then lay pavers to cut down on the dust.


I recently created a shadow box to display my Cub Scout knot board. I made this knot display on March 27, 1967 when I was a member of Pack 60 in McAllen. I recently found it in a box of stuff up in the attic and thought it would be a fun addition to the guest cabin.


I also replenished our firewood supply at the cabin. A couple of weeks ago, my friends Mike and Jeff invited me to join them at Jeff’s father-in-law’s ranch in Navasota where a big, old pecan tree had crashed to the ground and was destined for the burn pile. The three of us spent a morning cutting and gathering firewood for the cabin.


Cheryl tried something new on our little Blackstone grill. Since we don’t have an oven at the cabin, she used the grill as a makeshift oven and baked some really delicious cookies — lots and lots of cookies. We were so encouraged by the success of this experiment that Cheryl will try her hand at making pizza on the Blackstone on our next visit. I am absolutely ready for that!


The rest of our time was spent catching up on a lot of general maintenance items. I installed new light fixtures and added shelves to our (former solar equipment) closet in the main cabin. I also serviced our propane heaters, mouse-proofed our outdoor toilet and shower area, and completed a few others miscellaneous things on the list. Always something on the list.


The weather was amazing. Pleasant days, amazing sunsets, really dark and cold nights, and the soothing and therapeutic silence of the desert. This is a gift — a wonderful gift from God. We are excited about the the year ahead and the opportunity to spend many more days in the embrace of the Chihuahuan Desert and vast Big Bend skies.

by

High Sierra Bar and Grill

Terlingua is a place like none other in the Lone Star State. Nestled between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park, this ghost town has a character uniquely its own. The name of the town is derived from the Spanish words “tres lenguas” meaning “three tongues” — a reference to English, Spanish, and Native American, the three languages spoken there in the days of the Old West.
Terlingua SignIf you have never ventured to the Chihuahuan Desert or to Terlingua, you owe it to yourself to visit this fascinating and mesmerizingly beautiful part of Texas. Terlingua was once a thriving mining town that was abandoned after the Second World War. Starting in the 1970’s, Terlingua became a destination for adventurers, entrepreneurs, artists, musicians, and just plain folks who were bewitched by the old ghost town and decided to stay.
High Sierra Bar and GrillOn a recent visit to Big Bend Ranch State Park, my buddies and I ventured to the High Sierra Bar and Grill in Terlingua in search of a hunger busting burger. There are not a lot of places to eat in Terlingua so we were happy to find the High Sierra and even happier to learn that they had burgers on the menu.

I ordered my usual bacon cheeseburger with a side of onion rings and a tall glass of iced tea. We enjoyed the ambiance of the place while we waited for our burgers. The staff was friendly. The iced tea was cold. The mix of locals and outsiders made for some interesting people watching. And the music was perfect, especially because Johnny Cash was on the playlist.
High Sierra BurgerMy burger and hand-battered onion rings arrived hot and ready to eat. The generous-sized and cheese covered meat patty was cooked just the way I like. The bun was slathered with a combination of mustard and mayo, every ingredient was fresh, and the bacon was nice and crispy. I cut my burger in half and eagerly took my first bite.
High Sierra Sliced BurgerThe first bite always tells the story. And this first bite was delicious. Wow — it was so good. I savored every tasty bite. When I finished, my only regret was that I did not have the bandwidth in my stomach (nor the metabolism) to do it all over again. Without question, this was one of the best burgers I have eaten in the Lone Star State. And the onion rings were pretty tasty in their own right. All in all — a delicious meal!

No matter where you go in Texas, you can find a delicious burger. However, you must be willing to get off the beaten path and walk into places you might not otherwise visit. I’m glad we stopped to eat at the High Sierra Bar and Grill. This eatery will remain high on my list of places to eat the next time I venture west of the Pecos River. If you find yourself anywhere near the ghost town of Terlingua, check out the High Sierra Bar and Grill.

by

2017 Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest

Last year’s Chihuahuan Desert Mountain Bike Endurance Fest was one of my favorite Lone Star State adventures. The venue for this bike fest that draws hundreds of mountain bikers from across the state and beyond is the expansive Chihuahuan Desert at Big Bend Ranch State Park — without question one of the most beautiful and mesmerizing places in Texas.
Chihuahuan DesertThe Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest is an annual event offered on Presidents’ Day Weekend in February and sponsored by Desert Sports of Terlingua, Big Bend Ranch State Park, and Lajitas Resort. If you are interested in riding, then be sure to register early. The event is capped at 500 riders and fills up well before the registration deadline.
Bike GuysOne of the best things about this event is that it is a ride and not a race. Whether you have a multi-thousand dollar full-suspension mountain bike or an entry-level hard tail, you will feel right at home. There are guided rides for every skill level. You can ride at your own pace and not feel embarrassed if you have to dismount and walk your bike up a scree-covered incline.
Maverick RV ResortBase camp for the big event is the Lajitas Maverick Ranch RV Park in Lajitas, located adjacent to the old town cemetery that looks like something out of an old western. The surrounding desert hills and mesas only add to the old west mystique. The ride turns the RV Park into a boomtown crammed with RV’s and tents, brand name bike vendors, and evening campfires and music and conversation.
Biking FriendsThis year I returned to the Bike Fest with several friends. We had reserved a couple of sites after last year’s ride to make sure that we would have a place to pitch our tents. And, because we enjoy this event so much, we have already reserved our spaces for the next two years and hope to encourage a few more of our dirt-loving buddies to join us.
James at Bike FestAs soon as the sun came up we enjoyed a delicious breakfast and then mounted our mechanical steeds and headed off into the desert. We enjoyed two and a half days of riding and logged a little more than sixty trail miles. To say we had a blast would be an understatement. Sharing this adventure with good friends made it all the more enjoyable.
Trek at Chihuahuan Desert Bike FestI love events that bring people together — and the Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest does just that. We enjoyed sharing our dutch oven desert with our neighbors at the campsite, talking with other riders, sharing tales of our daily rides, laughing a whole lot, and warming our feet at our evening campfire under the watchful glimmer of billions of stars in our deep in the heart of Texas sky.
img_1445If you are a mountain biker, then I encourage you to add the Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest to your list of adventures. Get it on your calendar now. Register early. And then join the fun in one of the most amazing places in the Lone Star State. Hope to see you in the Chihuahuan Desert in 2018.

by

St. Agnes Church in Terlingua

The ghost town of Terlingua is located in the heart of the Chihuahuan Desert, one of the most rugged and hostile environments in Texas. The name of the town is derived from the Spanish words “tres lenguas” meaning “three tongues.” The discovery of quicksilver in the mid-1880s turned Terlingua from a sleepy little village into a town of a thousand-plus residents.St. Agnes ChurchBy 1913, Terlingua had a dependable water supply, mail delivery, somewhat reliable telephone service, a hotel, and a physician. Sometime in 1914, St. Agnes Church, also known as Chisos Mission, was established and became the focal point of the mining town. Itinerant priests held services at the church once a month and also officiated at baptisms, weddings, and funerals.St. Agnes Church InteriorChurch records indicate the priests adopted the Terlingua Cemetery. The burial ground is listed as St. Agnes Chisos Cemetery on church records but the official death records continued to list it as the Terlingua Cemetery. And although the town was segregated with Mexican families living east of the company store and Anglo families to the west, both Mexicans and Anglos were laid to rest in the same cemetery.St. Agnes Church AltarThe adobe building was constructed on a raised stone foundation on the side of a hill overlooking the town. The building has survived the ravages of time and remains an iconic symbol of the importance of faith in this remote place. The interior is completely unpretentious — offering worshipers hard wooden benches, a weathered pine floor, painted adobe walls, and a simple altar. The spiritual comfort the faithful have received here, however, more than makes up for any lack of creature comforts.St. Agnes Church ExteriorI hope to return to Terlingua to learn more about the old church and its history. Suffice it to say that St. Agnes Church has a beauty all its own. We’ll never know how many people over the years found solace, refuge, and the help they longed for inside the walls of this old church. St. Agnes Church remains as an enduring reminder that faith is important and can thrive in the harshest of places.

by

Terlingua Cemetery

Terlingua is one of the most fascinating places to visit in the Lone Star State. If you want to see this old mining town, then you have to adjust your compass settings to off-the-beaten-path. What remains of Terlingua is nestled between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park in far southwest Texas.
Terlingua RuinsThe name Terlingua is derived from the Spanish words “tres” and “lenguas,” meaning “three tongues.” Some folks say three tongues refers to Native American, Spanish, and English — the three languages spoken in the early days of the region. Others insist that the name refers to the three forks of Terlingua Creek. Either way, Terlingua is a cool name that somehow fits this rugged and hard place.
Terlingua CarAt the turn of the twentieth century, Terlingua became a flourishing mining town that yielded copious amounts of mercury, called quicksilver at the time. Today, Terlingua is a ghost town — the most visited ghost town in Texas. The town still has a few residents who live among abandoned ruins slowly being reclaimed by wind and weather. Visitors will find unique lodging options, a few places to eat, art galleries, a trading company, and a whole lot of vast open spaces and endless skies.
Terlingua Cemetery SignOne of the most interesting places in Terlingua is the old cemetery that dates back to the 1900s. Workers who lost their lives in the mines, victims of the influenza epidemic of 1918, gunfighters who were seconds too slow on the draw, and early residents are all buried there. Every year in November, folks gather at the cemetery to celebrate Day of the Dead and to offer their respect to the departed.
Terlingua CrossesWalking slowly among the old graves is a sobering experience — the kind that makes you reflect on just how hard life is in this remote and rugged land. Names of the departed etched on weathered wooden crosses are no longer legible. Creosote, ocotillo, and cactus cling to life among the rocks that cover the graves. Plastic flowers and miscellaneous mementos placed on graves are the only indications that some of the dead are not yet forgotten.
Terlingua GraveThe Terlingua Cemetery is a time-capsule. Every grave holds secrets and stories that will never be told. Visitors can only speculate about the deceased and what their daily lives must have been like in days when quicksilver turned this region from a sleepy little village into a community of a couple of thousand — and eventually into a ghost town.
Terlingua Cemetery Mask Even though Terlingua is out of the way and far from just about any place in the Lone Star State, it’s definitely worth visiting. And, when in Terlingua, take a quiet and meditative stroll through the historic Terlingua Cemetery. You’ll be reminded that we are only here for a season and then we too will be laid to rest somewhere, maybe even in an old cemetery like the one in Terlingua. As for me, it doesn’t matter where you bury me as long as it’s in Texas.