After my first visit to McKittrick Canyon I knew without question that I had to return. The mesmerizing beauty of this rugged landscape sliced into the eastern edge of the Guadalupe Mountains had earned a place in my memory. And not just any place but instead a place near the front where it refused to be ignored.
My travel schedule did not allow me to return in the spring as I had hoped. I determined, therefore, to return in the fall when the canyon bursts into a palette of colors that have earned it the reputation as the most beautiful spot in the Lone Star State. Once you visit you will understand why its hard to argue against that. It is indeed a beautiful and unforgettable place.
Whether you are a seasoned hiker or a novice, McKittrick offers trails to scratch every itch. The McKittrick Trail, a round-trip of about eight miles, is family friendly. The trail is flanked by beautiful trees and native plants hemmed in by jagged canyon walls. The color of the big-tooth maples is accented against the varying shades of green of alligator junipers and manzanita trees with their tiny apple-like berries.
The Grotto, a small limestone cave that resembles the gaping toothy mouth of a dragon is the perfect spot for a picnic. The park service has built some rustic tables at this location under the shade of the trees. You can turn around at this point or head just a little farther up the trail to the Hunter’s Line Shack, built in 1924 — worth the extra steps.
For those with more adventurous ambitions, you won’t be disappointed. There are even more hiking options available. But, regardless of whether you do a short or long hike, be sure to take a hydration pack and some snacks. Sign in at the trailhead when you start your hike and sign out when you leave. This will help the park personnel account for all visitors.
Regardless of where you live in the Lone Star State, make it a point to add McKittrick Canyon to your list of outdoor adventures. Consider visiting in the fall when the colors in the canyon are at their peak. Visiting and taking even a short-hike at McKittrick will do you good. In the words of John Muir, “In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks.” You will certainly find that to be true at McKittrick Canyon.
5 Facts About Sotol
Like ocotillo, sotol is one of the most easily identifiable plants in the Trans-Pecos region of the Lone Star State. The plant’s tall and singular flower stalks are the most distinguishing feature of this hearty native. Growing upwards of ten to fifteen feet, these towering stalks look like periscopes rising above the surrounding sea of scrub and rock.
1. The sotol flower stalk has a variety of uses.
Ancient peoples like the Lipan, Chiricahua, and Mescalero Apache depended on the sotol to meet a variety of needs. The tall and straight flower stalks were used to make spear shafts, knife handles, digging sticks, and tepee poles. However, perhaps the most important use of the stalk was to make fire drills and fireboards, also called hearth boards, for starting friction fires. Sotol stalks also make excellent walking sticks and are used in the construction of corrals, house roofs, and other structures.
2. Sotol is a plant with a heart.
The heart of the sotol plant has been used for generations as a food source for humans and animals alike. In times of need, ranchers know that they can rely on the heart of sotol for cow fodder. However, this requires trimming back the armada of saw-edged leaves so that the animals can access the sugary and starchy pith of the plant.
Sotol heart was also a major staple food for ancient peoples. They discovered that the spongy sotol hearts are edible raw but tasted better if roasted slowly. The leaf bases can be eaten in a fashion similar to artichoke bracts. Ancient people also pounded sotol hearts into a paste that, when dried, could be mixed with nuts and fruits or ground into a flour.
3. Fashion by sotol.
Native Americans used sotol leaves to weave mats and baskets and even durable sandals. These resourceful desert dwellers also used the fibers of the sotol leaves to make many varieties of twisted cordage. More recent uses of the leaves include making ropes, roof thatching, and hats.
4. Drunk on sotol.
Hispanic peoples of the region learned to make sotol mescal — a potent alcohol drink made from the heart of the plant. One modern naturalist compared the drink to a “mixture of hair oil and gasoline.” Sotol mescal became a common alcoholic beverage among the frontier population of west Texas. During the Prohibition, sotol mescal became a leading article of contraband.
5. A source of fuel.
The dead leaves of the sotol plant make an excellent fuel for fires in places where both trees and fire wood is scarce. The leaves burn rapidly and brightly, making them an excellent source of fuel for an emergency fire. The green leaves of the plant can be used for providing smoke for emergency signaling.
Mig’s Burgers
After several days of hiking in Guadalupe Mountains National Park, a friend and I decided to travel west toward Salt Flat to explore some of the backroads in this vast part of the Lone Star State. There is a whole lot of openness out in the Trans-Pecos that has a calming beauty all its own. This is quintessential cowboy country for sure.
As we traveled west on US 180, the Guadalupe Mountains slowly faded from view and nothing but the horizon loomed in front of us. And I do mean nothing but the horizon. We eventually headed south on FM 1111 toward Interstate 10 — a long stretch of road that eventually led us to a little town called Sierra Blanca.
Sierra Blanca, translated White Mountains, is a Census Designated Place with a population of less than six-hundred people. This nearly invisible little town is located 30-miles from the Mexican border and 80-miles southeast of El Paso. It has the distinction of being the county seat of the sparsely populated Hudspeth County.
We arrived in Sierra Blanca at noon and were hungry for a good burger. That’s when I noticed a Border Patrol vehicle parked in front of Mig’s Burgers. Since there are not a lot of places to eat in Sierra Blanca and because we did not want to drive to the next town on empty stomachs, we decided to check out Mig’s.
When we walked in I noticed the two border patrol guys seated at a table. I walked over and asked them if the food was good. They smiled and pointed to their empty plates and assured me I would not be disappointed. So, we sat down, checked out the menu, and placed our order. I ordered a jalapeño cheeseburger and onion rings with a glass of tea.
We were surprised to learn that Mig’s has only been opened for about four months. That’s why I did not find any recommendations when I checked my Yelp! and Trip Advisor apps. But, no worries since we had it on good authority — literally — that the food was good. And indeed it was.
My bacon cheeseburger was prepared to perfection and was absolutely delicious — and not just because I had spent several days hiking and had an appetite the size of Texas. It was really good. The onion rings were store-bought and nothing to write home about, and that’s ok. The burger, however, met and exceeded my expectations.
I hope Mig’s gets enough drive by business to stay in business. The folks that run the place are friendly and attentive to customer needs. And they definitely know how to put together a good burger. I wish Mig’s the very best as they grow their business. Be sure to stop by if you ever find yourself in this far-flung region of the Lone Star State.
Summiting Hunter Peak
Six of the seven named peaks in Texas that are more than 8,000-feet in elevation are located in Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Of these six, three are accessible by steep and rocky trails — Guadalupe Peak, Bush Mountain, and Hunter Peak. The others can only be reached by those intrepid enough to bushwhack their way across rugged terrain with topo map and compass in hand.
On my recent visit to Guadalupe Mountains National Park, my friend Doyle Lowry and I decided to start our quest to summit all seven peaks by hiking to the top of the peaks accessible by trail. Now, just because these peaks are accessible by trail does not necessarily make them an easy win. Quite the contrary!
After reaching the top of Guadalupe Peak, we set our sights on summiting Hunter Peak. The Hunter Peak trailhead is accessible by way of the long and switch-backing Tejas Trail. The Hunter Peak trail itself is rated as difficult but is a beautiful hike.
Doyle and I set off from our base camp at Pine Springs Campground as soon as the sun came up. We followed the winding Tejas Trail toward the junction of the trailhead to Bush Mountain and Hunter Peak. The Tejas Trail slowly winds its way up the mountain and features long inclines and gentle switchbacks that lead to ever-increasing elevations.
After several miles of hiking we reached the trailhead that leads to Bush Mountain to the west and Hunter Peak to the east. We took a ten-minute nutrition break at the trail junction and then set off on the Bowl Trail until we reached the intersection of the trail that leads to Hunter Peak. This was by far one of our very favorite hikes. The area is absolutely beautiful. But, like the other trails leading to the summits, the trail led increasingly upwards.
Finally, Hunter Peak came into view. When we reached the summit we were rewarded with much more than we expected. The views from Hunter Peak have to be the most beautiful in the park. Absolutely magnificent views in every direction. From the summit we could see all of the other peaks in the park as well as hundreds of miles toward the distant horizons.
We started our descent a little after mid-afternoon and slowly made our way back to base camp, stopping along the way to take more photos. We reached the lower portions of Tejas Trail as the sun disappeared over the peaks and finished our hike in the dark.
Guadalupe Peak gets lots of attention at the park and understandably so. After all, it is the highest point in Texas. However, the views from Hunter Peak rival if not exceed those from Guadalupe Peak (at least in our estimation). So, if you set your sights on Guadalupe Peak, make it a point to spend an extra day and hike up to Hunter Peak. I promise that you will not be disappointed.
Seven Lone Star Summits
There is something about high places that beckons — that invites us to venture upwards to behold new vistas. Now, I am a flat-lander born and raised. Grew up in a place so flat that a fellow could see his dog running away for three days and maybe four if he stood atop a tuna fish can. No need for topo maps in my neck of the woods because there are no high places there.
That may explain why I am drawn to the hillier parts of our state that actually have contours that draw eyes upward toward the sky. The sight of hills and mountains, modest as they may be in the Lone Star State, just make me smile and nod my head in agreement with God’s handiwork. I love all of the geography within the borders of our distinctively shaped state, especially places where the geography slopes upwards.
On December 2, 2014, I set off on my most aggressive upwards adventure — one that would take me to elevations far beyond those reached on any of my hikes in the magnificent Texas Hill Country. Early that chilly morning, I took my first steps toward the summit of Guadalupe Peak, the highest point in Texas. After a pretty strenuous hike with lots of elevation gain and upwardly inclined switchbacks, I reached the summit — 8,749 feet.
Standing at the highest point in the Lone Star State was amazing. I could almost see my front porch from there, and my dog! On that particular day I had the top of Texas all to myself. I spent half an hour just drinking in the views like a parched man trying to satisfy a thirst. Every direction I turned, the vast views poured into me and refreshed me in ways I cannot explain.
Since then, I have learned that there are seven named peaks in the Lone Star State that rise more than 8,000-feet into the Texas sky. These seven peaks are a bucket list unto themselves, even for a flat-lander like me. In order of height, they are:
• Guadalupe Peak | 8,749 feet | Guadalupe Mountains
• Bush Mountain | 8,631 feet | Guadalupe Mountains
• Shumard Peak | 8,615 feet | Guadalupe Mountains
• Bartlett Peak | 8,508 feet | Guadalupe Mountains
• Mount Livermore | 8,378 feet | Davis Mountains
• Hunter Peak | 8,368 feet | Guadalupe Mountains
• El Capitan | 8,085 feet | Guadalupe Mountains
This past week, I returned to Guadalupe Mountains National Park with my friend Doyle Lowry to hike to the top of Guadalupe Peak and Hunter Peak. My second hike to the top of Texas was as tough as the first time. But, the reward was every bit as satisfying. Hunter Peak was also amazing. More about that in another post.
Hiking up trails that make your legs burn and cause you to stop often along the way to breathe deeply is therapeutic. And the views along the way are like a soothing balm that keeps you putting one foot in front of the other.
If you enjoy hiking in the Lone Star State, then consider taking a trip out west to where the northern edge of the Chihuahuan Desert meets the southern tip of the Rocky Mountains. It’s a fascinating and beautiful place. But, be warned and be prepared! The seven Lone Star summits will beckon you toward the top of Texas.
Orange County Special Angels Rodeo
The Orange County Special Angels Rodeo began as a dream and has become an event that makes dreams come true for special needs individuals of all ages. Founder Lue Harris will never forget the night she woke up from a dream, a dream of doing something to impact the lives of a group near and dear to her heart — those with special needs.
Convinced that this dream was nothing less than a divine call to action, Lue woke up her husband Dan and told him that they needed to champion something really big for those with special needs. And so began a journey to bridge the gap between Lue’s dream and reality — something that would take a heap of work on the part of a whole lot of folks.
With the help her daughter Jo, daughter-in-law Debbie, and other family and friends, Lue’s dream of blessing those with special needs started to take shape. Her dream resonated in the hearts of people throughout the community. Folks liked the idea of offering those with special needs a rodeo experience unlike any other — an opportunity to become a cowboy or cowgirl for a day and participate in rodeo events using equipment especially adapted to meet their needs.
This year, for the third time, the Orange County Special Needs Rodeo welcomed volunteers and individuals with special needs from around the state. In the days preceding the event, an army of volunteers transformed the T2 Arena and Event Center in Orange into a handicap-accessible rodeo wonderland — complete with specially adapted mechanical bulls, a petting zoo, horses, and so much more.
I first learned about this rodeo a year ago when I interviewed Jo and her mother Lue at their Farmers Mercantile Store in Orange. I knew then that I wanted to volunteer at the rodeo and waited a year to do so. And I am so glad I did. I was absolutely blown away by what I saw. The transformation of the facility was beyond anything I could have imagined.
What touched my heart the most was seeing the smiles and hearing the laughter of those young and old arriving in wheelchairs, leaning on walkers, and holding the hands of volunteers. Every participant was matched to a special buddy who helped them get around the arena to enjoy the day. Even wheelchair-bound individuals had an opportunity to ride a horse around the arena on specially designed saddles with safety straps. Totally amazing!
To say my heart was warmed would be an understatement. I can’t stop thinking about what a magnificent day this was for me as a volunteer. My wife Cheryl accompanied our new friend Gwen on her rodeo experience. Gwen is bound to a wheelchair but today, her spirit and her smile were set free. Cheryl cried when she had to say goodbye to Gwen.
Folks like Lue and Dan and Jo and Debbie and their team represent the best of what it means to be a Texan. They don’t try to hide the fact that they lean heavily on God for help and want to glorify Him by serving others. Their selfless service along with that of their many sponsors, underwriters, and volunteers make it possible for a special group of Texans to make wonderful memories in a rodeo arena. Knowing folks like the Harris family and attending events like this make me proud to be a Texan.
Beautiful Bur Marigold
I am not a naturalist but I do have a natural curiosity about flora and fauna in the Lone Star State. I have more photos of yet-to-be-identified plants and flowers on my phone than I care to count. But, that’s ok! I find it relaxing to leaf through the pages of my Texas wildflowers handbook in search of answers.
On a recent bike ride at Brazos Bend State Park, I was captivated by acres of beautiful yellow flowers growing along the edges of Elm Lake and along the trail to the spillway. These sunflowery-looking beauties were a feast for my eyes and had me reaching for my camera.
Curious to learn more, I posted my pics on my iNaturalist app and asked for help. Thanks to the kindness of someone much smarter than me, I discovered that the beauties growing in biblical proportions at Brazos Bend are called bur marigold.
Bur marigold are also known by a few other names, including tickseed and beggar-ticks because their bristles tend to latch on to the britches or socks of hikers. These flowers prefer low, moist areas such as ditches, marshes, and wet meadows. That explains why they were flourishing along the lake at the park.
Bur marigold are also butterfly magnets. They attract a variety of butterflies, bees, and even birds. And, at least at Brazos Bend, they attract people. The photographers were out in force snapping away with their telephoto lenses. As for me, my iPhone camera served the purpose. As they say, the best camera is the one in your hand.
Riding past acres of these beautiful flowers that Thoreau himself described as being full of the sun reminded me of why I love to get outdoors. Scenes of wildflowers, sounds of birds, sights of wildlife, and big oak trees with outstretched branches — it just doesn’t get much better than that.
The weather in Texas is starting to get a little cooler, making it a perfect time to explore our treasure chest of state parks. Plan to get outdoors soon. Breathe in some fresh air. Feast your eyes on nature at its best. And thank God for the Lone Star State.
2-M’s Malt N Burger Mart
One of the things I miss the most when I travel internationally is a good Texas hamburger. After returning home from back-to-back trips to the Amazon and El Salvador, I hopped in my pick up and headed to Rosenberg in search of a burger dive. As I often do, I stopped to ask a local for a recommendation. I had already eaten at the first two joints but had not heard of the third — 2-M’s Malt N Burger Mart.
2-M’s has been around since 1963. The drive-in style building features awning-shaded parking out front and a small dining area inside. I like places like this. Other than showing its age, this place looks pretty much the way it must have looked when it was first built. This was obviously a popular joint. Lots of folks ordered at the pick-up window while a few dined inside.
I ordered a cheeseburger with all of the fixings plus french fries and sweet tea. I sat my burger deprived body down and waited anxiously to hear the words I longed to hear — Order 72. Within minutes I picked up my burger basket and tea and sat down to enjoy the first burger I have eaten in weeks.
I unwrapped my burger and took my first bite. Not disappointed. This was just an honestly good burger built around a modest on-the-thinner-side meat patty. All of the flavors blended together well. I enjoyed the burger, not just because it has been a while since I’ve had a burger, but because it was genuinely tasty.
The sign out front boasts “Voted Best Burger in Fort Bend County.” Whether or not you agree with that assessment, you can’t argue against the fact that for the past 53 years the locals have cast their vote by keeping the doors of this joint open. That is the vote that matters the most. And, I’m glad that the place has retained its weathered vintage charm.
Those of you who read my burger reviews know that I would rather eat at a burger dive any day of the week than to cross the threshold of a fast food joint. I love the adventure of stumbling across places like 2-M’s. You might not live anywhere near Rosenberg, but I’ll bet that you can find a burger joint near you that will win you over with taste and charm. When you do, be sure to let me know and I’ll add it to my list of places to visit on a future Texas road trip.
A Salute to Buffalo Soldiers
On July 28,1866, Congress authorized the creation of units made up of black enlisted soldiers to serve in US Cavalry and US Infantry regiments. The Plains Indians equated the skin color, hair type, courage and tenacity of these black soldiers with that of the buffalo — hence the nickname “buffalo soldier.”
Buffalo soldier units served in the 9th and 10th US Cavalry regiments and the 24th and 25th US Infantry regiments. Soldiers from all four of these regiments served at Fort Concho from 1869 to 1885, comprising half the soldiers stationed at the post. Fort Concho, in modern-day San Angelo, was built after the Civil War to establish law and order and to protect settlers from Indians.
This summer, Fort Concho observed the 150-year anniversary of the Buffalo Soldiers. My wife and I happened to be in the area so we attended the celebration at the fort. While there we had the opportunity to meet Paul Cook, a Buffalo Soldier re-enactor as well as listen to a talk by John Langellier, a historian and the author of “Fighting for Uncle Sam: Buffalo Soldiers in the Frontier Army.”
I had heard about the Buffalo Soldiers but did not know much about them. So, I was excited to attend Langellier’s talk. The contribution of these tough soldiers to the westward expansion of our nation must not be underestimated. Buffalo soldiers did everything from building roads to patrolling the frontier to a variety difficult civil and military tasks. Additionally, they distinguished themselves in campaigns against numerous Indian tribes.
The most amazing thing I learned about Buffalo Soldiers was the history of the all-black 25th Infantry Bicycle Corp. At a time when the military did not want to spend money providing horses for these black soldiers, a white lieutenant names James Moss persuaded the military to provide them with bicycles. The military agreed and provided the Buffalo Soldiers with heavy duty bicycles made by the Spalding Company.
To show the practicality of the bicycle for military use, Moss organized a ride from Fort Missoula to Yellowstone National Park and back again — a trek of 800 miles over rugged terrain. He later organized a 1,900 mile ride from the fort to St. Louis. All of this at a time when there were few roads, bicycles were terribly heavy and had a single gear, and the men had to strap all of their gear to their bicycles.
Amazing does not begin to describe the achievements of the bicycle regiment — a testimony to just how tough the Buffalo Soldiers were. As a mountain-biker who owns a pretty decent bike with lots of gears and suspension to make riding the trails easier, I have the deepest respect for the Buffalo Soldier cyclists. Wow! These guys were the definition of what it means to be tough.
Buffalo Soldiers are an important part of our history. Their history is part of the fabric of our rich Texas history and deserves to be told and retold to future generations. They helped to ensure the settlement of frontier regions of Texas and beyond. Happy 150-year anniversary to the Buffalo Soldiers of yesteryear!
The Thirsty Parrot
The Thirsty Parrot has been on my list of places to visit ever since I first drove past the place a few years ago. Located on FM 359 in what remains of Monaville in Waller County, you can hardly miss the place.
As for Monaville, it’s been around for a while. In 1886, a fellow named Daniel C. Singletary opened the first post office and grocery store and named the community in honor of his daughter Mona. Monaville never made it big. As a matter of fact, it never even made it small. There is not much left to see in Monaville.
The Thirsty Parrot has been around for a while. It is a favorite watering hole for bikers, road trippers, farmers and ranchers, and families. I was happy to learn that the regional chapter of Bikers Against Child Abuse gather at The Thirsty Parrot. Love what these guys do to protect and champion the rights of abused kids.
I finally had the opportunity to go to The Thirsty Parrot when a friend invited me to lunch. “Have you ever eaten a burger at The Thirsty Parrot?” was all he had to ask. I was all in for the thirty minute road trip from Katy to Monaville to finally sample one of their burgers.
When we arrived we met a friend, a Vietnam veteran who farms near Monaville. Love our veterans. I ordered my usual cheeseburger, a side of fries, and a tall glass of iced tea and then waited with anticipation. My friends and I were deep in conversation when our food arrived. Time to stop talking and start eating.
Ok — so one bite and I knew immediately that this was one of the best burgers I have tasted since I started my search for the best burgers in Texas. Holy smoke it was absolutely delicious. The meat was cooked to perfection. The bread was moist and the veggies crispy. Even the fries were delicious.
My only regret was that I had waited so long to make the short trip from Katy to Monaville to eat at The Thirsty Parrot. Not only was my burger amazing, the service was good, the place was clean, and the conversation was great. Rarely do I put a burger joint or eatery on my list of places to visit a second time, but this place made it to the top of that list.
If you find yourself anywhere near Monaville at lunchtime, you owe it to yourself to stop by The Thirsty Parrot to try one of their delicious burgers. Don’t let the motorcycles spook you. This is a good place to grab a bite of lunch that you won’t soon forget.
I have learned that you’ll find the best burgers in the Lone Star State in the most unlikely places. So, drive past the fast food eateries and discover an interesting burger joint near you. And please don’t wait as long as I did to discover a great placed to eat — like The Thirsty Parrot.
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