Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Enchanted Rock, located about twenty miles north of Fredericksburg, is a Texas Hill Country treasure. This massive 500-foot-high dome of pink granite is surrounded by a sea of deep green cedar and piñon pines. Enchanted Rock is the nation’s second largest granite dome, next to Georgia’s Stone Mountain.
Enchanted Rock Entrance
Road to Enchanted RockThe Tonkawa and other Native American tribes believed that the rock talked — a belief rooted in the strange sounds they heard coming from the granite dome at night. Scientists explain that these sounds are created by the expansion and contraction of fissures in the rock as temperatures change. This and other myths and legends gave rise to the name Enchanted Rock.
Enchanted Rock Summit TrailEnchanted Rock State Natural Area offers seven miles of hiking trails. The four-mile Loop Trail winds around the base of Enchanted Rock and gives hikers opportunities to see lots of wildlife. The Summit Trail is the most popular hike in the park. Even though the trail has a 425-foot elevation gain from the trailhead to the summit, it is a relatively easy hike. The summit offers fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.

Enchanted Rock SunflowersMany people prefer to visit Enchanted Rock between late April and early June when the park is awash with the vibrant colors of Texas wildflowers — bluebonnets, Indian paintbrush, yellow coreopsis, and basin bellflowers. But, regardless of what time of the year you visit the park, you won’t be disappointed by the views from the summit.
Enchanted Rock Vernal Pools
Vernal Pool w TreeOn the summit you will notice shallow depressions in the granite. One Indian tale tells of the spirit of an Indian chief who sacrificed his daughter and was consequently doomed to walk the summit forever. The indentations in the rock, the legend says, are the chief’s footprints. In reality, these indentations are called vernal pools that collect water and eventually accumulate soil and become a small oasis of plant life on the face of the rock.
Omar Doyle Enchanted Rock
Omar Hike Up Enchanted FallsEnchanted Rock is not on a direct route to anywhere else, so if you want to visit the park you have to plan to go there. And, once you visit, you’ll understand why Enchanted Rock is one of the most popular places in the Lone Star State. When you visit, definitely plan on hiking the Summit Trail.
Doyle Enchanted Rock Summit
Omar Pushing Rock Enchanted RockBe sure to wear shoes with good soles that will grip the rock, take a water bottle or hydration pack, and don’t forget your camera. And, if you happen to be on the summit in the evening, listen carefully and you just might hear what the Tonkawa Indians heard years ago — the enchanting sounds of the talking rock.

Cadillac Ranch

Cadillac Ranch may just be the quirkiest tourist attraction in the Lone Star State. The old folks up around Amarillo know it as one of the world’s first roadside sculptures — ten Cadillacs buried nose down in a field along old Route 66 west of town. This art project was the brainchild of the late Stanley Marsh 3, an eccentric Texas millionaire. Marsh used the number 3 after his name because the felt that the Roman numeral III was too pretentious. Imagine that!
Cadillac RanchIn 1973, Marsh invited a group of artists from California to help him create an unusual work of art, one that would baffle the locals. The hippie artist collective, known as the Ant Farm, was all too happy to help Marsh realize his dream. These guys came up with the idea of burying old Cadillacs nose down in a wheat field owned by Marsh. The Texas millionaire approved the plan and work started in 1974.
Cadillac Ranch CloseupThe California artists initially acquired eleven Cadillacs ranging in model year from 1948 to 1963. Most of the cars were purchased from junk yards at a cost of about a couple-hundred bucks each. Only ten of these cars, however, were used. Ten holes were dug and, one by one, each Cadillac was nudged nose first into its partially buried resting place.
Cadillac Ranch Car CloseupThe cars were buried in sequence from the oldest to the newest — all facing west and supposedly at the same angle as the Great Pyramid of Giza. As a result, a legend was born (or perhaps buried). The site immediately attracted the attention of folks traveling down the road and eventually came to be known as Cadillac Ranch.
Cadillac Ranch TireIn 1997, the cars were exhumed and moved about two miles to the West because of the encroaching city. This roadside oddity continues to draw tourists and the curious. There is parking along the road and visitors are allowed to bring their own spray paint to add their personal tags to the sculptural oddity. Today, the cars are covered with thick layers of spray paint and ever-changing graffiti, possibly the only thing holding the old cars together.
# Road TripI have visited the Great Pyramid of Giza. And while it’s impressive, it is certainly not as colorful as the old Cadillacs with their tails in the air. Interesting that ten cars buried nose first in a wheat field in Texas likely draw as many or more visitors than the pyramids we all learned about in school. We are definitely drawn to the historical and the comical. And although the quirky roadside attraction will not outlast the pyramids, kudos to Marsh, the patron saint of Cadillac Ranch, for turning an otherwise empty field in the Lone Star State into something to talk about.

Filipps Restaurant in Sealy

Randy and Georgia Hinze’s life took an unexpected turn after Randy experienced problems with his heart. Unable to find employment because of his health and yet not ready to retire, Randy looked in a new direction. Filipps Bar-B-Q had just come up for sale, so he and Georgia decided to buy it and go into the restaurant business.
Filipps RestaurantFilipps is located in Sealy, a small town on Interstate 10 west of Houston. A guy named Joe Filipps started the restaurant forty years ago and ran the place for thirty years. Filipps sold the restaurant to another couple who owned it for a few years. They sold it to yet another couple who eventually sold it to Randy and Georgia in 2009.

I learned about Filipps from my friend Gil Harris who also enjoys eating at these kind of off-the-beaten-path places. Gil knows that I am on a quest to find the best burgers in Texas. So, he invited me and some other friends to join him for lunch at Filipps. And I am so glad he did. Filipps is now on my list of favorite places to eat.

The restaurant sits a block off the main street in town just west of the railroad tracks. You can’t miss the small tan-colored building with the letters B B Q on the front of the building. But, don’t let the Bar-B-Q sign fool you. Randy and Georgia serve much more than Bar-B-Q. They have an amazing menu of delicious home-cooked dishes served in generous Texas-sized portions.
Filipps OrderingI was there, of course, to sample their bacon cheeseburger and onion rings. Gil ordered their hand-cut sweet potato fries with his burger. I had been waiting a month to visit Filipps and walked through the door with a big appetite. I was so hungry I could hardly wait for my burger. So, you can imagine my delight when Georgia finally delivered my meal to the table.
Filipps BurgerThe burger had a half-pound of meat served on a moist bun with all of the fixings. One bite and I immediately concluded that this is one of the best burgers I have eaten in the Lone Star State — a burger with a flavor as big as Texas! Holy smoke it was good! I savored every bite as I thought about how soon I can make it back to Sealy to do this all over again.
IMG_6298Afterward, Randy and Georgia invited me into the kitchen to see where the burger magic happens. That’s where they shared their story with me about how they ended up running a restaurant at this season of their lives. It was immediately apparent to me how much they care about the freshness of their ingredients and refuse to compromise on quality.

Randy and Georgia are passionate about what they are doing. They treat every customer like family. Within minutes of meeting them I felt as though I had known them for years. Although their food is unquestionably delicious, their restaurant works because they care deeply about their customers. They offer what you will never get at a fast food place — warm hospitality and the kind of home-cooked food that keeps you coming back.

Filipps is indeed off-the-beaten path, unless you live in Sealy. But it is definitely a place worth visiting if you are ever anywhere near this small town. The restaurant is open between the hours of 11:00 AM and 8:00 PM on Tuesdays through Saturdays. Stop by Filipps if you are in the area — and tell them I sent you. You’ll be glad you did and you won’t go away hungry!

Church of Saints Cyril and Methodius

The painted churches of Texas are one of the Lone Star State’s best historical treasures. The legacy of German and Czech immigrants, these churches are a testimony to the faith of those who settled frontier towns from the Gulf Coast to the Texas Hill Country. There are about twenty painted churches in Texas — so called because their sanctuaries are beautifully adorned with hand-painted murals and other colorful decorative elements.
Painted Church ShinerThe Catholic Church of Saints Cyril and Methodius in Shiner, Texas is one of the most beautiful of the painted churches. Shiner was founded by German and Czech immigrants in 1887. While the early citizens of Shiner were busy building their homes and businesses, they did not neglect the spiritual welfare of their new community. The first Catholic church building was completed in 1891 and served the people of the community for many years.
Shiner Church Entry AngelRapid growth of the parish in subsequent years led to the construction of the larger church building that is still in use today. Completed in 1921, this beautiful building is regarded as one of the most magnificent Gothic structures between San Antonio and Houston. The church is named after Saints Cyril and Methodius, two brothers who were honored missionaries to the Slavic peoples during the ninth century.
Shiner MuralsBoth the exterior and interior of the church building are a feast for the eyes. The exterior is patterned after the Romanesque architectural style. The interior boasts a beautiful hand-painted mural behind the ornate altar depicting Christ in the Garden of Gethsemane. Other painted features include clouds on the ceiling of the dome above the altar and angels on the panel above the arch as you face the altar. These beautiful murals are the work of Edmond Fatjo, the artist. Fatjo was trained in Berlin and specialized in painting church interiors.
Shiner Stained GlassThe six large stained glass windows depicting Biblical scenes were made in Munich, Germany and imported to Shiner when the church was built. Stand glass windows, it seems, have become a forgotten element in modern church architecture. However, the stained glass windows in the sanctuary of the church in Shiner not only add a worshipful ambiance to the interior, they serve as a passive form of education — like illustrated pages from the Scriptures.
Shiner Interior BackThe dramatic murals and other decorative elements make the Catholic Church of Saints Cyril and Methodius one of the most beautiful churches in the Lone Star State. It’s no wonder that this church has been on the National Register of Historic Places since 1983. Other painted churches are located in the towns of Ammansville, Dubina, High Hill, Praha, Schulenberg, West, and Fredericksburg — all towns whose historic painted churches are a testimony to the spiritual and cultural legacy of early German and Czech immigrants to Texas.
Shiner Church EntryAs you consider daytrips near you or roadtrips farther away from you, consider visiting the painted churches of Texas. They are indeed a Texas treasure. The church in Sculenburg keeps its doors open throughout the week and welcomes visitors. You can check the internet for the best times to visit some of the other painted churches or sign up for a tour of the painted churches through the Schulenburg Chamber of Commerce.

The Regency Bridge

Bridges. I love bridges. There is something inherently beautiful about these structures that are designed to connect people and places. Over my years of traveling the world, I have crossed some of the most beautiful bridges on the planet and cautiously ventured across others.
Regency BridgeAs a fan of Texas Country Reporter, I have long been fascinated by the one-lane suspension bridge featured in the opening segment of the show — the Regency Bridge. This beautiful bridge spans a remote section of the Colorado River on the Mills-San Saba County line.
Regency Bridge SignIt is, perhaps, a little known fact that Texas has more bridges than any other state in the Union. And, of the more than 52,000 bridges in the Lone Star State, the Regency Bridge is the last suspension bridge in the State that is open to automobile traffic. That alone makes it worth a visit.
Tundra on Regency BridgeThe iconic suspension bridge gets its name from Regency, a now-abandoned farming community on the Mills County side of the Colorado River. The first bridge built at the location in 1903 collapsed under the weight of a herd of cattle. A second bridge was destroyed by a flood in 1936.
Regency Bridge ViewThe current Regency Bridge was built in 1939 and repaired and rededicated in 1999. In December 2003, kids shooting off fireworks accidentally started a fire on the wood decking, burning a hole in some of the planks. The bridge was repaired and today remains open to vehicular traffic.
Regency Bridge TundraThe Regency Bridge is located at the intersection of Mills County Road 433 and San Saba County Road 137, both gravel roads. There is room to park on the Mills and San Saba sides of the bridge. The views from the bridge of the Colorado River and the surrounding countryside are absolutely beautiful.
Omar on Regency BridgeIf you find yourself anywhere near the Regency Bridge, make it a point to take a detour to drive across the bridge and to stop and enjoy the scenery. The bridge does not get much traffic because it has been bypassed by newer paved farm to market roads. That makes it even better and possible to enjoy the bridge and the vistas for long uninterrupted periods.

Caprock Canyons Trailway

On my short list of affordable adventures in the Lone Star State is to bike the Caprock Canyons Trailway. This 64-mile hiking, biking, and equestrian trail stretches from South Plains to Estelline along an abandoned spur of the Fort Worth and Denver Railroad. The trailway is a part of the Rails to Trails Conservancy, an organization that is creating a network of trails around the country from former rail lines.
Caprock Canyons TrailwayThe Caprock Canyons Trailway runs through one of the most scenic areas of Texas and skirts Caprock Canyons State Park, home to the State’s bison herd. The bison herd is the legacy of Charles Goodnight. This famous cattle rancher rescued several plains bison in 1876 at the urging of his wife at a time when bison were being slaughtered by the thousands.
Caprock Canyons TrioThe vistas at this park are absolutely beautiful. And, the presence of bison lends an Old West charm to the views. There are several locations in the park where you can take short hikes to scenic overlooks. There is indeed something therapeutic about sitting in silence while looking at scenery that just makes you take a deep breath and smile.
IMG_5139

While visiting the park, I asked the rangers for advice on how to prepare to bike the trailway. They emphasized the importance of caching water along the way and carrying lots of spare bike tubes. These guys know their stuff. They have seen the best and the worst that has happened to those who come here to bike the trailway.
Caprock Canyons PicsAfter visiting the park, my wife Cheryl and I drove to three of the trailheads to get a feel for the terrain. Gazing at the long stretches of trail got me more excited than ever about carving out some vacation time to make this adventure a reality.
IMG_5129After checking out the trailway, we stopped for lunch at Galvan’s Restaurant in Turkey, located a short distance from one of the trailheads. Good choice! We enjoyed a delicious homemade burger in a small restaurant that was so clean you could eat off the floor. The walls are decorated with autographed pics of famous TV western stars. Pretty cool. I recommend Galvan’s if you are ever in this you-got-to-be-going-there part of the Lone Star State.

Looking forward to actually biking the trailway in the near future. Stay tuned.

Biking the Bayfront

My sister and I were just kids when our folks introduced us to Corpus Christi on a family vacation. I confess that I was a bit frightened by the vast expanse of water that seemed to dissolve into the distant horizon a million miles away. And I was also concerned because my sister’s nickname is Bonnie and I remember my Mom singing the old Scottish folk song, “My Bonnie Lies Over the Ocean.” I was afraid that at any moment a wave might scoop Bonnie up in its foamy arms and carry her to a place far away over the ocean.
USS LexingtonAs a kid, I never expected that one day I would return to the Sparkling City by the Sea and spend seven years of my life there. When I drove down Shoreline Drive for the first time, I felt as though I had found my Shangri-La. Could any place on the planet be as beautiful? The city seemed to be perched on the edge of the world. And, that same vast open water that I had first seen as a kid made the whole world seem like it was within reach. Over the years since then I have stood on beaches and coastlines on the other side of the world and looked back toward Corpus Christi.
Shrimp BoatOn a recent visit, I ventured back to Shoreline Drive to ride my bike. I started near the ship channel where the USS Lexington is permanently moored. There is plenty of parking near the museum area there. I rode south along the beautiful bayfront and also swooped down into the t-heads to ride slowly past the boats. The windy day did not keep the fisherman from casting their rods against the wind. Apparently they too thought that the day was just too nice to stay indoors.
Bike and BoatsI only rode about eight miles but my intention was not to do a lengthy ride but instead to linger and enjoy the beautiful views — the sky, the sea, the birds and the boats, and the big ships that come here from all over the world. I stopped a lot along the way to just look out and to soak in the views that I first fell in love with so long ago.
PelicansI am glad that my folks introduced me to this place when I was a kid and that God allowed me to spend a few years of my life here. Biking the bayfront was a fun and affordable adventure, one that I hope to do again the next time I return to the Sparkling City by the Sea. If you are headed to Corpus Christi anytime soon, take your bike and enjoy a relaxing ride along Shoreline Drive.

The Lone Star Hiking Trail

The Lone Star Hiking Trail is the longest hiking trail in Texas. This 129-mile (including loop trails) National Recreation Trail winds its way through the beautiful Sam Houston National Forest. Last year, a couple of my buddies and I thru-hiked the main 96-mile trail from Richards, Texas all the way to the eastern terminus near Cleveland.
LSHT SignThe Lone Star Hiking Trail is indeed a Texas treasure — a heaven for hikers. Over the seven days on the trail we hiked through some of the most absolutely beautiful scenery I have ever seen. Tall pines and majestic oaks accented by blooming dogwood trees. Colorful wildflowers splashed on the pine-needle carpeted trail. Every step of the way held interesting sights. And there is no way to describe the gentle sounds made by the wind plucking notes on tree branches.
LSHT-OverviewAlthough the terrain is relatively flat, in some sections the trail meanders up and down through miles of forests of pine, oak, and mixed hardwoods. In places, the trail follows winding bayous for miles, often bisected by these natural waterways. Footbridges make it easier to cross boggy sections or deep ravines. And, there are many places where the trail gently slopes upwards for such long distances that you feel the burn in your legs.
3 Men and a DogDoing this thru-hike does require a few miles of hiking along Farm to Market and Forest Service roads. This is where we encountered so many dogs along the way. Private homes along these country roads, it seems, had their fair share of dogs that sensed our approach and barked smack in an effort to scare us away.
LSHT Rest StopHiking the trail means factoring in times of rest along the way. These rest times were opportunities for us to sit silently in the woods, allowing us to look up at the sky through the tall pines. We also took advantage of these quiet moments to do a little foot care, to down some extra nutrition, and to study our maps.
MapEvery segment of the trail presented its respective challenges — an incline, crossing a ravine, dense and low-hanging overgrowth, mud, pounding pavement between trailheads, finding a water source or campsite. Each challenge made our trek all the more adventurous.
Crossing RiverFor several days, the one nagging thought in the back of my mind was how we would cross the East fork of the San Jacinto River. Not knowing how much water was in the river or whether an old log reported by other hikers was still the best way to cross the river made me anxious to get there. Worst case scenario would mean backtracking and taking a long detour. Fortunately, we were able to cross the river by walking across the old partially submerged log.
CampWe found great places to camp along the way, filtered our water, prepared meals on our backpacking stoves, and enjoyed sitting around our campfire in the evenings. When we passed through Huntsville State Park we enjoyed refreshing showers and bought lots of snacks at the park store. Near the end of our hike it rained and rained, so we cut our adventure short by one day and hiked the final 21-miles in the pouring rain.
Omar on LSHTHiking the Lone Star Hiking Trail was an unforgettable experience. This trail is indeed a hiker’s heaven. Regardless of whether you only have time for a day hike, an overnight camping trip, or a long-distance trek, you will absolutely love this trail. The trail is very well maintained and the route clearly marked with blazes on the trees. If you are a hiker, consider planning an adventure on the Lone Star Hiking Trail. And if you camp out, you’ll find that the stars at night are indeed big and bright, deep in the heart of Texas.

Biking Stephen F. Austin

Nestled on the banks of the Brazos River, Stephen F. Austin State Park is an easy drive from Houston. This beautiful 663-acre park offers visitors a variety of camping options and 6 miles of hiking and biking trails. As a Texas State Parks Pass holder, I visit this park as often as I can throughout the year.
SFA Bike Ride w FlowersAny visitor to the park should set aside some time to visit the nearby Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site — the birthplace of Texas. It was at this location in 1836 that representatives of Texas settlements met to make a formal Declaration of Independence from Mexico and where the government of the Republic of Texas was created.
SFA Bike Ride w LogAs someone who enjoys mountain biking, the trails at Stephen F. Austin State Park are among my favorite. Although there are only 6 miles of trails at the park, these single track trails are a lot of fun to ride. They are perfect for beginner and intermediate level riders. I generally try to do at least two loops on these winding trails.
SFA Whitetail DeerOne of the things I enjoy most is the opportunity to see wildlife along the trails. There is no shortage of whitetail deer, rabbits, armadillos, barred owls, and a variety of birds. The Brazos Bottom Trail leads to and follows the bluff along the banks of the wide and slow-moving Brazos, the longest river in the Lone Star State. There are a couple of spurs along this trail where you can park your bike and hike down to the river.
SFA Ride Scenic OverlookAlthough these trails are fun to ride, I do have to remind myself to slow down and stop occasionally to enjoy the scenic overlooks along the banks of the Brazos or to just listen to the sounds of nature. There is something unquestionably therapeutic about spending time outdoors. The trails at Stephen F. Austin State Park are visitor friendly and just what the doctor ordered for anyone needing to relieve a little stress.

So, whether you enjoy mountain biking, trail running, or just a slow walk through the woods, I encourage you to check out the trails at the park. The park office will provide you with a good and easy-to-read trail map. Honestly, you would have to work really hard to get lost at this park. But I do guarantee that you will get lost in thought as you wander the shaded trails at Stephen F. Austin State Park.

One final note. Remember to stay hydrated as you enjoy the trails at the park. Always carry a water bottle or hydration pack and, if you plan to be out long, a few nutrition bars.

Under Rainy Texas Skies

As a card-carrying Texas backroads adventurer, I look for opportunities to schedule windshield time on my calendar. And because I enjoy driving down Texas backroads, I am not picky when it comes to the weather. In fact, familiar backroads can take on a whole new look when you drive them in the rain.

I know that some folks prefer to stay inside when it rains, and I don’t blame them. There is something undeniably soothing about listening to the falling rain. But, I see rain as a great opportunity to get a new perspective on the sights along Texas backroads. I love how the rain changes the light and makes every color so much more vibrant and dramatic.
Rainy Road I-10On one particular rainy day adventure, I traveled from my home in Katy toward Brookshire. This small town, located a few miles west of Houston, was named for Captain Nathen Brookshire, an early settler who received title to a league of land as a member of Stephen F. Austin’s fifth colony in 1835. The intense rain made my early morning drive look like it was nighttime.
The Next BendOnce I got off the beaten path, the rain lightened up a bit and I was able to slow down and enjoy the sights. As you might imagine, most sane people stayed home so I pretty much had the backroads to myself. The overcast skies and steady rain made this familiar drive look like a totally new experience.
HorsesI absolutely love the what’s-around-the-next-bend-in-the-road feeling that I get when the road ahead turns one way or the other. My rainy day drive did not disappoint. Every little road had its own share of surprises for me. The rain did make it a little hard to take pictures but I managed to snap a few shots along the way.
Sunnyside Texas
Gray Sky
Rusty Roof HouseI especially enjoyed driving through Sunnyside, Texas in the pouring rain. A short time later I drove past a little road named Gray Sky — a name more appropriate for the day’s adventure. The old abandoned houses hidden away on these backroads looked even more mysterious in the rain. These old places always stir my imagination. They make me wonder who lived there, where they have gone, and what memories they still carry with them.
Windmill
Mixed SignalsOf course, I never tire of seeing windmills and stopping to look down railroad tracks that seem to go on forever. I came across one backroads sign along a bend in the road with two arrows pointing toward each other. Decisions, decisions!
RR TracksThe next time it rains, consider going for a drive down some lonely Texas backroad. The rain will give you a whole new perspective and appreciation for the beauty of the Lone Star State. The older I get the more I love Texas, the place I call home. And, as much as I enjoy traveling the world and seeing amazing and interesting places, there really is no place like home. Texas is indeed a beautiful place both in the sunshine and in the rain. Make it a point to discover the beauty of Texas under rainy skies.