The most beautiful spot in Texas. These are the words that piqued my interest in McKittrick Canyon. Located near the eastern edge of the Guadalupe Mountains National Park, the canyon has the most breathtaking display of fall colors in the Lone Star State. These spectacular fall colors attract thousands of visitors to the park in late October and early November.
Although I visited the canyon in late November, I was not disappointed. Friends and I camped at the Pine Springs Campground under overcast skies and freezing rain. The morning of our planned hike to McKittrick greeted us with 20-something degree temperatures and a world of ice. Through the night, the freezing rain had turned the plants and trees in the park into beautiful ice sculptures. We all felt privileged to see the park as few others have the opportunity to see it.
McKittrick Canyon is located about seven miles from the Pine Springs Visitor Center — the headquarters for Guadalupe Mountains National Park. We paid our entrance fee at the visitor center and then drove to the canyon. The freezing temperatures kept most sane folks away so we had the canyon pretty much to ourselves. Once we arrived, we wasted no time in setting off down McKittrick Trail toward the Grotto and the Hunter Line Shack (a round-trip hike of about eight miles).
McKittrick Canyon has a beauty all its own. It did not take long for us to realize that we were indeed in one of the most beautiful spots in the Lone Star State. We hiked through a striking palette of fall colors made even more dramatic by the cold, overcast skies. Colorful big-tooth maples, deep-green alligator juniper, bark-shedding manzanita trees, and other native plants each contributed to the beauty of the canyon.
The McKittrick Trail is the most popular in the park and a relatively easy trail to hike. The path is well-maintained and marked, making it almost impossible to get lost. The trail also crosses the only year-round stream found in the park. This stream is home to Texas’ only reproducing stock of rainbow trout. We hiked this trail to the Grotto, a tiny limestone cave filled with stalagmites and stalactites.
Just past the Grotto is a beautiful picnic area with rock tables and benches. We lingered a while at this peaceful spot and just soaked in the beauty of the place. After enjoying a few snacks, we wandered down the trail to the Hunter Line Shack, built in 1924. You can’t visit a place like this without letting your imagination run wild — wondering about the people who built and used it. What an amazing setting for a cabin! The stars at night must have indeed seemed big and bright to the guys who built this cabin deep in the heart of the canyon.
McKittrick Canyon is just one of the gems that makes a trip to the Guadalupe Mountains National Park worth the drive from anywhere in Texas. In addition to this amazing place that boasts the best fall colors in the state, the park is also home to Guadalupe Peak, the highest point in Texas, and El Capitan, the most dramatic landmark in the Lone Star State. I’m glad my friends and I visited the canyon in the fall. I look forward to returning again soon to enjoy the beauty of the canyon in the Spring or Summer.
Author: Omar C. Garcia
Life’s Better With Birds!
According to the folks at the Gulf Coast Bird Observatory, life’s better with birds! Located at 103 West Highway 322 in Lake Jackson, the observatory sits on 34 acres of Columbia Bottomland forest. Had it not been for my wife Cheryl, I might never have visited the observatory. She invited me to join her for her Texas Master Naturalist class on ornithology led by Chris Eberly, the Executive Director of the observatory. “We’ll also get to see how they band birds,” she said. That sounded too interesting to pass up.
Eberly and his team believe that life’s better with birds for good reasons. Birds do more to help our environment and our Texas economy that most people realize. The mission of the Gulf Coast Bird Observatory is to protect birds and their habitats around the Gulf of Mexico and beyond. Why? Because migratory birds benefit us through pollination, seed dispersal, and pest control. Beyond that, bird-watching contributes more than five-billion dollars annually to the Texas economy.
The ecoregion known as the Columbia Bottomlands includes the thick forest along the southeast coast of Texas. An estimated 29 million migratory birds pass through the Columbia Bottomlands every year. Think of this ecoregion as a hotel for migratory birds, many of which fly hundreds of miles on their migration routes. Migrating birds lose as much as one-third of their body weight. These birds stop to rest and to replenish their strength in the insect-rich woods before they continue their perilous journey north.
On the third Saturday of every month, the Gulf Coast Bird Observatory conducts a bird banding event that helps them collect baseline data on bird populations at the sanctuary. Robert and Kay Lookingbill operate the banding program. They share the information they gather with a national database that tracks the movement of birds and ultimately helps scientists better understand how to protect birds and their habitats.
I found the whole banding experience fascinating to watch. I have never before had an opportunity to see such a variety of beautiful birds so up close and personal. Robert and Kay handled each bird with the utmost care and recorded every detail about each of the birds — weight, wingspan, body fat, and more. They know their stuff and answered a lot of questions from those of us in attendance.
In addition to visiting our state parks, consider a trip to the Gulf Coast Bird Observatory. The self-guided nature trails are open Monday through Saturday from 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM. The monthly bird-banding operation is free of charge and no reservations are required. For more information on the Gulf Coast Bird Observatory visit their website. It’s a great place for adults and kids alike. Once you visit you too will agree that life’s better with birds!
Queen of the Painted Churches
The steeple of St. Mary’s Catholic Church towers like the tall mast of a ship above the vast pastures surrounding the historic community of High Hill. Founded by German and Austrian-Moravian settlers in the 1840s, High Hill is home to the beautiful St. Mary’s Catholic Church, known as the Queen of the Painted Churches. The painted churches of Texas are indeed a treasure.
St. Mary’s was designed and built in 1906 by Leo Dielmann, a young architect from Germany. At a time when churches were built in the more practical Mission style that was better suited to the hot Texas climate, Dielmann championed the classic gothic revival architectural style. Many of the wood churches of the period were destroyed by fire and storms, thus influencing German and Czech immigrants to build their churches of brick or stone.
In its early years, High Hill was a stop along a transcontinental stage-coach route. However, when the Galveston, Harrisburg, and San Antonio Railway wanted to lay tracks through their community, the residents refused to give the railroad any right of way. They feared that doing so would destroy the tranquility of the town. Instead, the railroad built its line south of town and Schulenburg was founded as a result. As for High Hill, it remained a quiet and tranquil little town.
Today, St. Mary’s Catholic Church remains as an enduring and endearing monument to the faith of the early settlers of High Hill. The interior of the church is absolutely beautiful. Every ornate detail testifies to the remarkable craftsmanship and talent of the artists and builders. The interior is a symmetrical feast for the eyes. The stained glass windows allow just enough light to seep in to enhance the worshipful atmosphere. You can easily sense that the church’s builders labored for the glory of God.
Visiting the Queen of the Painted Churches is certainly worth taking the short three-mile detour north of Schulenburg on Interstate 10. The doors are open and guests are requested to show proper etiquette when visiting the church. Be sure to take your camera. Once you stop by for a visit, you’ll understand why St. Mary’s is on the National Register of Historic Places and has earned the title Queen of the Painted Churches.
Hotel Blessing Coffee Shop
My road trip to the tiny town of Blessing was inspired by the name of the town. Blessing was established in 1903 on land owned by Jonathan Edwards Pierce, a namesake of Jonathan Edwards, the renowned 18th century preacher. When Pierce gave the right-of-way to the Galveston, Harrisburg, and San Antonio Railway, the settlement was as yet unnamed. Pierce proposed to name the settlement “Thank God.” However, when the Unites States Postal Service rejected his proposal, he named the place Blessing instead.
The best known spot in Blessing is the old Hotel Blessing, built in 1906. The hotel was built for land-seekers and was also a residence for developers Pierce and his son, Abel. Today, the hotel looks pretty much the same as when Pierce lived there and shipped his cattle to market on the nearby railroad. Hotel Blessing has survived the ravages of time, the battering of Gulf Coast storms, and retains its turn-of-the-twentieth-century charm.
Once you step through the double entry doors it’s as though you have entered a time capsule. The long entry hall is accented with period antiques and other Texas memorabilia. A stairway on the left leads to the second floor. At the end of the hall is the entry to the Dining Room — the historic Hotel Blessing Coffee Shop. Of course, this is more than a coffee shop. This cafe has been serving meals for more than a hundred years and is unquestionably one of the best places to eat in the Lone Star State.
The cafe is a bit unorthodox, which is what makes it so special. My wife Cheryl and I were immediately greeted when we walked in. We were instructed to “grab a plate and help yourself to as much as you can eat — and sit anywhere you like.” The food is served buffet style on antique stoves at the back of the dining area boasting tables, chairs, and decor as old as the hotel itself. Crissy, one of the young ladies who works at the cafe told us the peach cobbler was especially good. “I made it myself,” she smiled.
Cheryl and I loaded our plates with more food than you can legally eat a Baptist potluck fellowship. And it was all good. In fact, it was better than good. It was excellent. This was homestyle cooking at its best. Some have said that if you leave the cafe hungry then “it’s your own dang fault.” I agree. I ate more than I should have. And, Crissy was right. The peach cobbler was very good!
And the price for all of this homestyle goodness served in a place steeped in so much history — only ten bucks per person, including drink, dessert, and all the food you can possibly eat. That’s it. Ten bucks — tax included (pay with cash or check only). Not many places where you can get a deal like that these days and enjoy your meal in a laid back historical setting.
There is no question about the fact that Cheryl and I will look for the next opportunity to hit the road to the cafe at Hotel Blessing. We think that maybe next time we will go there for breakfast. Crissy assured us that the pancakes are amazing. And she definitely knows what she’s talking about!
Tamales in Texas
Whenever I hear the word “tradition” I can’t help but think of Tevye, the milkman in “Fiddler on the Roof” whose struggle to maintain his Jewish traditions was made even more challenging by the choices of his three older daughters. In the month of December, the word “tradition” in South Texas is all about La Tamalada or a tamale-making party.
“Tamalada” | Painted by Carmen Lomas Garza
One of my very favorite memories of growing up in South Texas is of the Tamaladas that my beautiful mother would host in our home. The annual Tamalada was a big family and social event when our home was filled with extended family and friends who gathered to make tamales, empanadas, pan de polvo, and other Christmas goodies. It was a great time of the year to be a kid in our home because the house was filled with people we loved, with music, laughter and conversation, and the opportunity to sample lots of food.
Tamales have been around for a long time. Bernardino de Sahagún, a Franciscan friar and ethnographer who came to New Spain (Mexico) in 1529, documented that the Aztecs served tamales to the Spaniards in the mid-1500s. We have traced our ancestry on my Dad’s side of the family to the 16th century, so perhaps our ancestors were among those who sampled Aztec tamales.
The word tamale is derived from the word tamalii from the Nahuatl language spoken by the Aztecs. The word means “wrapped food.” However, the Aztecs were not the only people to enjoy tamales. Tamales were also a favorite food of the Mayans in Central America and the Inca in Peru. Warriors from all of these peoples survived on tamales because it was a portable food.
My mother taught my wife Cheryl how to make tamales. Making tamales is a time-consuming, labor intensive, messy, and creative process but one that is worth the effort when that first batch of tamales is ready to be sampled. In keeping with tradition, Cheryl has hosted tamaladas in our home. My job is to sample the various fillings and making sure that the masa has the perfect taste.
A Tamalada is hard work but fun. It takes lots of hands to soak, dry, and sort the corn husks, to prepare and spread the masa on each husk, and then to add the filling, tie and bundle each tamal (singular) and then finally steam all of the tamales. Because the process is so labor intensive, families that keep the Tamalada tradition make as many tamales as possible. And then, the best part — eating and sharing tamales at Christmas.
Traditions are not all bad, especially those that keep us connected and grounded to faith and family. I hope that you will consider your Christmas traditions and help create memories that will bless and comfort your family and friends for years to come. And, whatever you do, be sure to eat plenty of tamales this Christmas.
Presidio La Bahia
Presidio La Bahia, the world’s finest example of a Spanish frontier fort, is located outside the town of Goliad. The original fort was built in 1721 on the banks of Garcitas Creek near present day Port Lavaca. When this location proved unsuitable, the fort was moved inland in 1726 to a location near present day Victoria. In 1749, the fort was again relocated to its present location near the banks of the San Antonio River.
Presidio La Bahia was responsible for the defense of the coastal area and eastern province of Texas. Within time, a settlement called La Bahia (The Bay) grew up around the fort. The name of La Bahia was changed to Goliad in 1829 in honor of Father Miguel Hidalgo, the patriot priest of the Mexican Revolution. Goliad is an anagram formed from the letters of the name Hidalgo (minus the silent letter H).
On October 9, 1835, Captain George Collinsworth and his band of Texas fighters attacked and defeated the Mexican garrison stationed at the Presidio. On December 20 of that year, the first Declaration of Texas Independence was formally declared at the fort. This Declaration was signed by 92 Texas citizens inside the chapel of Our Lady of Loreto, the oldest building in the compound.
The darkest day in Texas history, the Goliad Massacre, took place at Presidio La Bahia on March 27, 1836 — Palm Sunday. Colonel James Walker Fannin and 341 men under his command had surrendered to General José de Urrea of the Mexican army on March 20 at the Battle of Coleto Creek. The Mexican army held Fannin and his men as prisoners at the Presidio and at the chapel of Our Lady of Loreto.
Fannin and his men had drafted terms of surrender and expected to be treated with a measure of dignity as prisoners of war. General Urrea, however, told Fannin that he could not ratify his terms. He was bound by Santa Anna’s orders and a congressional decree to accept no terms other than unconditional surrender. And, although General Urrea recommended clemency for Fannin and his men, he later received orders from Santa Anna to execute all of the prisoners. He was left with no choice but to carry out the orders.
Some of the men were killed on the grounds of the Presidio and others were killed outside the fort. A few managed to escape. Twice as many men died at the Goliad Massacre than died at the Alamo. As news of the Goliad Massacre spread, streams of volunteers came to Texas to take up arms against the brutal dictator Santa Anna. “Remember the Alamo!” and “Remember Goliad!” became the most potent battle cries of the Texas Revolution.
Fannin and his men are buried in a mass grave outside of the walls of the Presidio. Their names are etched on the pink granite walls of the Fannin Memorial Monument, erected over the burial site in 1938 by the State of Texas. This site is located next to La Bahia Cemetery where you can find grave markers that date back to the mid-nineteenth century.
Our Lady of Loreto Chapel, where Fannin and his men spent their final days, is one of the oldest churches in the United States and is still in use today. In 1946, Antonio Garcia of Corpus Christi, known as the “Michelangelo of South Texas,” painted a beautiful fresco behind the altar. Lincoln Borglum, son of Gutzon Borglum of Mount Rushmore fame, sculpted the statue of Our Lady of Loreto that sits in the outside niche above the doors to the chapel.
You can learn much more about the history of Presidio La Bahia by visiting this National Historic Landmark. Visitors should watch the brief video that gives a broad overview of the history of the fort before walking through the museum filled with artifacts found on site. The grounds and out buildings are well-maintained and give visitors a sense of what life was like at the Presidio.
As you travel the Lone Star State, be sure to visit the sites that preserve the history of the Texas Revolution. Visiting Presidio La Bahia and the Fannin Memorial Monument in Goliad is a great way to remember and honor those who gave their lives for the great state of Texas. Their sacrifice should not be forgotten.
The Garden Company Cafe
On a recent day trip to Shiner to visit the Catholic Church of Saints Cyril and Methodius, one of the most beautiful of the painted churches in Texas, I made my way back home on backroads. Hungry for a hamburger, I stopped for lunch in Schulenburg, a small town located at the intersection of Interstate 10 and U.S. Highway 77.
The area around Schulenburg was settled by German, Austrian, and Czech settlers in the mid-nineteenth century. The town of Schulenburg was founded in 1873 when the Galveston, Harrisburg, and San Antonio Railway came through the area. The town gets its name from Louis Schulenburg, the man who donated land for the railroad.
Uncertain about the restaurants in town, I asked Siri (my iPhone travel guide) to recommend a restaurant. I read some quick reviews and decided to have lunch at The Garden Company Cafe, not necessarily a hamburger joint, but a place with lots of interesting choices on the menu. Housed in a period-looking farm house, I could not help but stop to eat there.
In addition to the restaurant, The Garden Company also features a marketplace and a nursery with colorful bedding plants, shrubs, trees, and more. The restaurant is creatively decorated and has large windows that let lots of light spill in to the rooms. The place was packed when I walked in — a good sign. Of course, I took advantage of the opportunity to see what folks were eating while I waited for my table.
The selections on the menu looked amazing. Wish I could have ordered a sampling of everything, but I was there to eat a hamburger. So, I ordered the Plain Jane — just a simple burger. The Plain Jane has a patty made of a blend of chuck and brisket topped off with an ample melted portion of aged sharp cheddar. The meal is served with oven roasted potato wedges, lettuce, tomato, and red onion on the side.
The Plain Jane burger was anything but plain. It was delicious. The bun was moist, the flavor of the meat was really good, and the potato wedges were cooked to perfection. Just the right size and the right amount of everything. The only thing that disappointed me was that the burger and potato wedges filled me up and I had no room left to eat one of their delicious-looking desserts.
I’m glad that I stopped by The Garden Company Cafe — absolutely a good decision. The wait staff was friendly and courteous, making the experience that much more enjoyable. If you are headed down Interstate 10 and find yourself anywhere near Schulenburg, stop by The Garden Company Cafe to enjoy a delicious meal or coffee and a dessert. I think you’ll agree with me that it was well worth the stop.
Lost Maples State Natural Area
Lost Maples is one of my favorite places in the Lone Star State. Tucked away in the rugged limestone canyons of the upper Sabinal River, this small park is big on beauty. This State Natural Area is a top Texas destination in the fall when the park becomes a palette of dazzling seasonal colors.
The park is home to a variety of trees that thrive in the deep and fertile soil deposited by the Sabinal River. In addition to one of the largest stands of big tooth maple trees, the park is home to a variety of oak trees, Florida basswood, American sycamore, green ash, black willow, sugar hackberry, and pecan trees. All beautiful trees that play their part in the fall color palette.
The months of October and November are among the busiest at the park. That’s when thousands of visitors make their way to Lost Maples to see the spectacular seasonal colors. You can check the weekly foliage report on the park’s website before you visit. This report is updated each Thursday and features photos of the color changes at the park.
If you enjoy hiking, then Lost Maples will not disappoint. The park offers eleven miles of trails, some of which are rugged and reach elevations of 2,200 plus feet, offering amazing views of the surrounding area. But, be warned, some of these trails are not only rugged, they are steep. If you decide to hike, make sure you are in reasonably good physical shape and be sure to take plenty of water.
One of the most interesting features at the park is Monkey Rock located on a spur trail off of the East Trail. Once you hike into the clearing at the base of a bluff you will see it — the monkey-looking rock sculpted by wind, water, and weather. And, if you walk slowly along the trails, you will also see an abundance of wildlife.
Lost Maples is located about five miles north of Vanderpool and seventy-one miles west of San Antonio in western Bandera County and far eastern Real County. The park can only accommodate about 250 cars. So, be sure to go early if you can or you may find yourself in a long line of cars waiting for a parking space to become available.
Lost Maples is absolutely beautiful in the fall of the year. But this area is also beautiful throughout the year, so visit whenever you have an opportunity. Regardless of when you visit the park, you will appreciate this Texas treasure. And, whether you spend the day or camp overnight, Lost Maples will inspire you and make you glad you spent the day outdoors.
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Please take a moment to read 10 Amazing Hikes in Texas You Need to Try.
Brady’s Restaurant in Brady
My search for the best burger in Texas has convinced me that if you are willing to drive past the fast food joints that crank out burgers faster than the speed of light, then you will find some really amazing burgers. But, you have to be intentional about looking for those out-of-the-way places that do more than slap a frozen patty on the grill. And you have to be willing to stop and check things out for yourself.
That’s exactly what a friend and I recently did while making our way to the geographic center of Texas. While driving through the small town of Brady, the town known as “The Heart of Texas,” we noticed a sign that boasted the best burgers in Texas. “Look,” I said, “that place serves the best burgers in Texas!” No hesitation — we had to check this out for ourselves. So, we drove around the courthouse in the town square and made our way back to Brady’s Restaurant.
After a morning of hiking at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, we were both hungry and ready for a hot meal. Simon, the guy who cooks the burgers, took our order. The menu above the counter described their burger as having a hunger-busting half-pound of Angus beef served on a caramelized bun with a side order of hand-cut fries. Perfect! That and a cold glass of tea completed my order.
Simon personally brought the piping hot burgers and hand-cut fries to our table. The burger was served sans condiments, something that we got to add ourselves from the condiments bar. The aroma of the burger and fries was a treat in itself. The first bite did not disappoint. Wow! The flavor of the meat and the moisture of the bun were perfect. Whatever Simon does in the kitchen to cook these burgers he does well. The last bite was as delicious as the first.
Afterward, I had the privilege of meeting Syed, the owner of Brady’s. Syed and his family have owned the restaurant for about ten years. As we talked about some of the other dishes on the menu, Syed convinced me that I should come back to try their famous chicken fried steak or all-you-can-eat catfish — dishes he claims are the best in Texas. And, of course, there is their big Cowboy Burger for those with a really huge appetite.
No pretense at Brady’s. Syed and Simon believe in their product — and after eating their burger, I believe in it, too! Stopping to eat at Brady’s was definitely a good call. It’s so easy to talk ourselves out of stopping to eat at family-owned places like this and opt instead for the more familiar brand-name places. Traveling Texas backroads has certainly changed my default setting from the familiar eateries to the more interesting places that are easy to miss. I am happy to add Brady’s to my list of favorite places to eat a burger in the Lone Star State.
Geographic Center of Texas
Brady, the county seat of McCulloch County, refers to itself as “The Heart of Texas.” That’s because it is the town closest to the geographic center of the Lone Star State. The town was originally named Brady City after Brady Creek, which runs through the town. However, when the town was incorporated in 1906 the name was shortened to Brady.
The McCulloch Country Courthouse is located in the heart of Brady. Construction of this Romanesque Revival styled building was completed in 1900. One odd feature of the building is that it has no clock in the tower — making its tower truly “timeless.” A marker on the courthouse lawn proudly displays the town’s Heart of Texas moniker.
One interesting fact about McCulloch County is that during World War 2, there was a German prisoner-of-war camp located three miles east of Brady. After the surrender of General Erwin Rommel’s Afrika Korps in April 1943, three-hundred German prisoners were transported to this camp deep in the heart of Texas. They remained there until 1945 when the United States began the process of repatriating these former prisoners of war.
As for the geographic center of Texas, it is actually located about 20 miles northwest of Brady. A historical marker off Highway 377 states that the actual smack-dab-in-the-middle coordinate is five miles from the marker on a private ranch. I’m sure that working out the location of the geographic center of Texas had its challenges, especially given the Lone Star State’s distinctive shape. The highway marker is as close as most Texans will ever get the the actual geographical center. I’m ok with that.
Standing at the marker near the point where the imaginary lines that divide Texas intersect was pretty cool. No matter which way you face from this center point, you get the idea that Texas is really big. In fact, fifteen of the fifty states could fit within Texas’ borders with more than 1,000 square miles left over. That’s a lot of space within the state’s distinctive outline.
To give you an idea of the vastness of Texas, the center point of the state is located 437 miles from the state’s most westerly point, 412 miles from the most northerly point, 401 miles from the most southerly point, and 341 miles from the most easterly point. Long distances no matter which way you face and even greater geographical diversity depending on which direction you travel.
If you happen to have a bucket list of places to see in the Lone Star State, be sure to include a visit to the geographic center of the state. And, of course, be sure to stop in Brady to see its beautiful courthouse. They just don’t build them like that anymore! I’m certainly glad I visited the heart of Texas. As a Texan, I will always have Texas in my heart.
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