Author: Omar C. Garcia

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Guadalupe Peak

Guadalupe Peak, the highest point in Texas, is located where the northern edge of the Chihuahuan Desert meets the southern tip of the Rocky Mountains.

Rising a modest 8,750 feet above sea level, Guadalupe Peak is not high compared to other peaks in the world. And, it’s not even considered the signature peak of the Guadalupe Mountain range. That designation belongs to the massive 8,085-foot high limestone bulwark known as El Capitan.
Omar GP Summit PicGuadalupe Peak is, however, the highest place you can go in the Lone Star State — and that alone makes the strenuous hike to the top worthwhile.
Guadalupe MountainI started my journey to the highest point in Texas long before I packed my gear. Before venturing to the Guadalupe Mountains National Park, I read everything I could find on Guadalupe Peak and watched several YouTube videos posted by hikers who had made the trek to the top of the mountain. I also studied trail maps to get a better understanding of the trail and its many switchbacks.

When I arrived at the park I checked in at the park office and chatted with the rangers about the hike. I spent the night at the campground and was up before sunrise the following day. I filled my hydration pack, tossed some Cliff Bars into my pack, grabbed my trekking pole and headed for the trailhead.
On TheTrail to GPThe trail to the top of Guadalupe Peak is just over four miles, but it’s all uphill. The National Park Service has rated this hike as strenuous because the trail steadily rises 3,000 vertical feet along the way. They are not kidding when they say strenuous. It was very strenuous.
Stair Steps to GPThe first mile and a half of the hike is the toughest because of the drastic elevation gain. Hiking this section of the trail is like climbing uneven stairs for a mile and a half. After that point, the trail has lots of switchbacks that steadily take you higher and higher into these mountains that were once the stronghold of Mescalero Apaches.
El Capitan from GPThe trail to the top go Guadalupe Peak is absolutely breathtaking. The final section of the trail offers a fantastic view of the backside of El Capitan and the surrounding country. After 2 hours and 50 minutes, I hiked the final switchback to the top and shouted for joy when I saw the marker at the top of the peak.

There are no words to describe what I felt when I reached the highest point in Texas. I was a kid again. I spent about 30 minutes at the summit — enjoying the view and the solitude.

On the way down I met a guy named Chet, the only other person who hiked to the summit on that day. We had a nice conversation and thought it was cool that he and I were the only two human beings on the face of the earth who stood on the highest point in Texas on December 2, 2014.
GP Summit PicI smiled all the way down the mountain and logged a round-trip time of 5 hours and 40 minutes. Not bad for a 58 year-old guy who is still wild at heart. Standing on the highest point in Texas was an experience I will never forget. Hiking to the highest point in Texas should definitely be on the bucket list of any able-bodied Texas adventurer.

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Law West of the Pecos

There is no question that Texas is big and vast. In Texas you measure distance by hours rather than miles — a lesson I learned when I traveled on a hot school bus from the Rio Grande Valley to the Buffalo Trails Scout Ranch in the Davis Mountains in 1972. One of the most memorable parts of that long journey was stopping at Langtry to visit the Jersey Lilly, the place where the legendary Kentucky-born Judge Roy Bean dispensed justice in the late 1800’s.

Roy Bean called himself the “Law West of the Pecos.” I first learned about Judge Roy Bean from my grandfather when I was a kid growing up in Mission, Texas. My grandfather was a real estate broker and served on the Mission City Council. One year he was recognized as the oldest city commissioner actively serving in the state of Texas. He also provided notary and translation services to folks in town. And, he loved Texas history.

Law West of the PecosMy grandfather leased a part of his office to a man named Leo Gonzalez, the local Justice of the Peace. Judge Gonzalez had an old painting of the Jersey Lilly hanging on the wall in his office above a sofa. The building in the painting had a sign prominently displayed above its entrance: Judge Roy Bean | Notary Public | Law West of the Pecos. That was my introduction to Judge Roy Bean.

Judge Roy Bean PicMy grandfather shared amusing stories with me about the colorful Judge Roy Bean. It’s hard to separate fact from fiction when it comes to Judge Bean. But there is no question that he was a fascinating character in Texas history. He owned a single law-book but rarely referred to it. Instead, he dispensed his own brand of justice. Once, Judge Bean fined a corpse, ironically for the exact amount that the deceased man had in his pocket when he had died! But, in the lawless and desolate Chihuahuan Desert of West Texas, Judge Bean was the man for the job.
Boy Scouts at Jersey LillySo, when my Boy Scout Troop leader announced that we would be traveling to the Davis Mountains and would visit the Jersey Lilly along the way, I was excited to have the opportunity to see a place I had heard so much about. Since that first visit to Langtry with Boy Scout Troop 68, I have stopped by the Jersey Lilly on a couple of other occasions.

Langtry and the Jersey Lilly reek of the gritty old west. I love walking around the place, perhaps because it makes me nostalgic and reminds me of my grandfather, Judge Gonzalez, and the old painting hanging on the wall in his office.

I am fortunate that my grandfather stirred my imagination and nurtured my curiosity by telling me stories about colorful Texas characters like Judge Roy Bean. Texas has no shortage of interesting people and places that can connect us to the rich history of the Lone Star State.

If you have never visited Langtry, I encourage you to add it to your list of out-of-the-way places worthy of a visit. You’ll enjoy walking back in time to the days when Judge Roy Bean dispensed his sometimes quirky brand of justice in the vast Chihuahuan Desert west of the Pecos.

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Texas Star Cafe

A friend introduced me to the Texas Star Cafe a few years ago — and I am glad he did! Located on FM 1094 in New Ulm, this small town cafe is big on delicious home cooked meals offered in Texas-sized portions. On my first visit I sampled their chicken fried steak. “Order the small one,” my friend advised, “or you won’t be able to eat it all.” He was right!
Texas Star Cafe SignOn my most recent visit I tried one of their hamburgers for the first time. For whatever reason, I have been on a quest to find the best burgers in Texas this year. So, I wanted to try one of the many burgers on the menu at the Texas Star. Figuring out what to order was easy. I ordered the Jalapeño Bacon Cheeseburger with a side of their homemade onion rings and a tall glass of iced tea.
Texas Star Cafe MenuAs soon as the burger arrived at my table I knew I had made the right choice. I could tell just by looking at it — a half-pound of meat covered with crispy bacon, cheese, and a generous helping of jalapeños. Step one was to cut the burger in half just to make it easier to eat it. The first bite confirmed that I had indeed made the right choice.

One of the key ingredients to a great burger (at least in my humble opinion) is the bun. The bun should serve as more than just parentheses around the meat. I have sampled some tasty burgers only to be disappointed by the bread. Not so at the Texas Star! The buns were expertly prepared, perfectly moist, and enhanced the flavor of the burger.
Texas Star Cafe BurgerAs for the onion rings — definitely some of the best I have ever had. Absolutely delicious! I could have easily made a meal of nothing but onion rings and iced tea. So, the bottom line is, I thoroughly enjoyed my jalapeño bacon cheeseburger and onion rings.
Texas Star Cafe InsideI can’t wait to visit again to sample one of the other burger selections at the Texas Star Cafe. And, I can’t wait to discover other places along Texas back roads on my quest to find and enjoy the best burgers in the Lone Star State. I welcome your suggestions on great burger joints.

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Welcome, Texas

Texas has no shortage of small towns with interesting names — including Welcome, a small unincorporated community in Austin County. Welcome is located on FM 109 between Industry and Brenham, the home of Blue Bell Ice Cream. This tiny if-you-blink-you-will-miss-it spot in the road is definitely worth a visit.
Welcome Texas SignThe town was settled in the late 1820‘s but remained nameless until 1852 when a German immigrant named J.F. Schmidt christened the town Welcome — a name that he felt reflected the hospitality of the residents. At its peak, the town boasted a population of no more than a couple hundred folks and a few businesses. Today, a little more than a hundred folks call Welcome their home.

A friend and I drove through New Ulm on our way to Welcome and pulled over to walk through the cemetery, established in 1853. I make it a point to stop by old cemeteries when I travel Texas backroads. You can learn a lot about a place and the folks who settled there by visiting their burial places.
New Ulm CemeteryAs my friend and I walked through the cemetery at New Ulm we headed for the oldest grave markers. That’s when we noticed a pattern — an entire section of graves of children who all died at the turn of the twentieth century. After reading the names and dates on these graves we felt heartsick and wondered what had happened to these children. We talked about how the deaths of these kids must have impacted their families and the New Ulm community in those years.
Welcome StoreWhen we arrived in Welcome we stopped by the Welcome Store, established in 1890 and a Texas Historic Landmark. The original two-story building was damaged by a storm in 1900 and reconfigured as a one-story building with two asymmetrical gables, a wide front porch, and a screened door entry. The building pretty much looks the same today as it did when it was rebuilt after the storm.
Omar at Welcome StoreStepping inside the Welcome Store was like stepping back in time. The place is a fascinating time capsule crammed with tons of interesting details. Leonard and Lynn Wittneben, the current owners, greeted us warmly. This sweet couple raised their family in Welcome and recently celebrated their 50th wedding anniversary.
Welcome CemeteryWhen we told Leonard and Lynn about our visit to the New Ulm cemetery and mentioned the number of graves for kids, Lynn told us that a typhoid epidemic had taken the lives of the children. “You’ll see the same thing at the old Welcome cemetery, the one across the street from the Lutheran church” she said. “There’s a whole section of graves for kids who died during that same epidemic.” Times were hard then.
Welcome Hospital PicLynn motioned to Leonard to get their history album, a collection of old photos and stories  about Welcome crammed into an old notebook. Welcome actually had a hospital in its early days, and a doctor whose methods later came into question and led to his suicide. We sat with Leonard and Lynn for almost an hour and listened to the fascinating history of their beloved community.
Omar w Leonard and LynnWhen we finally exchanged good-byes, our new friends invited us to stop in again sometime. My buddy and I agreed that Leonard and Lynn are true ambassadors for a tiny community named for its hospitality. They indeed made us feel welcome in Welcome.

If you are ever anywhere near the vicinity of Welcome, take a moment to stop by the old Welcome Store, a place that has served travelers and residents for the past 125 years. Leonard and Lynn will welcome you and remind you that good-old Texas hospitality is never out of date. Oh, and while you are there, ask Lynn to tell you the fascinating story about their wedding cake!

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Dichos Sabios

Dichos sabios are wise sayings. Every culture has their “dichos” — sayings, proverbs, and nuggets of folk wisdom passed from generation to generation by means of everyday conversation. As a Hispanic kid growing up in South Texas, dichos were the spice of parental advice. I heard my fair share of dichos throughout my growing up years.

The beautiful thing about dichos is that they have their own rhyme and rhythm that makes them easy to remember but often harder to translate. Nevertheless, these little sayings are pregnant with wisdom. Here are a few of my favorites. Even if you don’t speak or read Spanish, try sounding out these dichos to get a sense of their rhythm.
Don Quixote Dichos SabiosA quien madruga, Dios le ayuda. | Translation: God helps the one who gets up early. This dicho is related to “the early bird gets the worm” and is an admonition to work hard.

Acabándose el dinero, se termina la amistad. | Translation: When the money runs out (or ends) so do friends (friendships). This dicho addresses fair-weather friends who stay around as long as they can benefit.

Camarón que se duerme, se lo lleva la corriente. | Translation: The current carries away the sleeping shrimp. This dicho cautions against slothful and lazy living.

El diablo sabe más por viejo que por diablo. | Translation: The Devil knows more because he is old than because he is the Devil. This dicho reminds us that experience is the best teacher.

La lengua del mal amigo más corta que el cuchillo. | Translation: The tongue of a bad friend cuts deeper than a knife.

Para un niño con un martillo, todo es un clavo. | Translation: To a child with a hammer, everything is a nail.

El que quiere baile, que pague músico. | Translation: The one who wants to dance should pay the musician. This dicho teaches that the one who wants to see something happen should take responsibility for making it happen.

Lo que bien se aprende, nunca se pierde. | Translation: We will never lose what we learn well.

Si quieres el perro, acepta las pulgas. | Translation: If you want the dog, accept the fleas. Regardless of what you do, every endeavor or profession has its respective challenges.

Del dicho al hecho, hay mucho trecho. | Translation: There is a great distance between word and deed. This dicho is akin to the old saying, “It’s easier said than done.”

Despacio voy, porque de prisa estoy. | Translation: I am progressing slowly because I am in a hurry. This dicho reminds us that it is better to take the time to do things right than to have to make the time to make them right. Or, in the words of the carpenter, “Take the time to measure twice and then cut once.”

Mejor solo que mal acompañado. | Translation: It’s better to be alone than to be with bad company.

These are just a few samples from among hundreds of dichos. Every culture has their respective collection of folk sayings and proverbs. I encourage you to explore your own culture and discover some of the timeless truths that have  been shared across your family’s generations. You may just discover some “dichos sabios” that you can pass on to the next generation.

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Hike at Your Own Pace

I have loved the outdoors since I was a kid. I was fortunate to be a member of an active Boy Scout Troop that took us on many hiking and backpacking adventures. My favorite adventure was in July 1972 at the Buffalo Trail Scout Ranch in the Davis Mountains of far West Texas. Camping at Buffalo Trail was a dream come true for me and my South Texas buddies. We logged lots of hours hiking up and down mountain trails, enjoyed cooking our own meals, and felt like pioneers when we drank water from a cold stream.
Omar's July 72 Davis Mtn Hike

July 72 Davis Mtn StreamI still have my Boy Scout Handbook and several of my Merit Badge handbooks as well. As a Scout, I spent hours poring over the pages of these manuals, learning to do things like tie knots and make my own survival kits. My grandmother made my first sleeping bag because they were not as readily available in stores then as they are today. My homemade sleeping bag served me well for a number of years. My Dad gave me his Boy Scout hatchet and my Mom bought me an official Boy Scout knife.
Omar's Scout BooksFor a number of years I lost some connection with the outdoors because of my busy schedule of writing, travel, and the plain old pressures of the daily grind. In recent years, however, my son helped me to reconnect with the outdoors by inviting me to join him in kayaking, doing ultra-marathon canoe races, camping out, and hiking. I’m glad he did. Getting outdoors again flipped my outdoor adventure switch back on — and it has stayed on ever since.
Omar AloneLast year I managed to bike and hike a little more than a thousand miles on Texas trails, including thru-hiking the Lone Star Hiking Trail. The great thing about biking and hiking is that you can take things at your own pace — no need to get in a hurry. I set my own goals last year of hiking every trail at Brazos Bend, Stephen F. Austin, and Palmetto — three state parks not far from home. I am in the process of doing the same at a couple of other state parks this year. All at my own pace. Just a few miles at a time.
IMG_6116Don’t be satisfied with watching Bear Grylls eat bugs and have his own epic adventures on television. Take some intentional steps to enjoy the great outdoors in the Lone Star State. Do some online research to find a state park or walking trails near you and then go on a hike. Start slow and go at a pace that you can enjoy. Set a goal to walk all of the trails (over time) that are a fit for your physical conditioning. Invite a friend to join you. Walk slowly. Stop often to breathe deeply and to listen to the sounds of nature. I guarantee you’ll enjoy the experience.

Below is a quick checklist of some basic items you will need for a leisurely walk in the woods. More on these items in future blog posts.

• Comfortable shoes (a half-size bigger will give your feet room to expand)
• Trekking pole (a personal preference)
• Water bottle or hydration pack
• Trail mix or granola bars
• Trail map (available at any park office)
• Survival Kit (I carry a compact survival / first aid kit in my hydration pack)

I hope to see you somewhere on a hiking trail in the great State of Texas.

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The Oaks of Brazos Bend

Magnificent — that’s the word that best describes the huge live oak trees at Brazos Bend State Park. These stately giants elegantly dressed in Spanish moss have lived through lots of years of Texas history. As a kid I learned that scientists can determine the age of a tree by counting the rings in the trunk of the tree. The term for the study and dating of annual growth rings in trees is dendrochronology, from dendro (tree), chronos (time or events in past time), and ology (the study of).
Big OakI know very little about the science of dendrochronology. But, that has never stopped me from admiring and enjoying the old, stately trees of Brazos Bend. Every time I hike or bike the trails at the park, I can’t help but wonder about the ages of these moss-draped giants. The oaks of Brazos Bend have survived lots of stuff through years of growth on the coastal plains of Texas, including hurricanes and droughts and other threats.
DendrochronologyI recently read  “Forty Chances: Finding Hope in a Hungry World,” a book authored by billionaire Warren Buffet’s son, Howard. The older Buffet is quoted in the book as saying,“We do sit in the shade of trees planted by others.” He continued, “While enjoying the benefits dealt us, we should do a little planting ourselves.” What a great thought and reminder that there is wisdom in planting trees.
Big TreeLike John Chapman, the American pioneer nurseryman also known as Johnny Appleseed, those who plant trees have a vision that extends beyond their lifetime. Tree planters invest in the next generation and have faith in a future they may never see. They are not afraid to take on big projects or to start things for which they may never see an end result. And yet they plant anyway because they believe that someone in the future will one day enjoy sitting under the shade of the trees they planted.
Omat TreeThe huge trees at Brazos Bend did not get huge overnight. And the trees that we plant will not get big overnight. Good things, including growth and maturity, take time. It’s amazing to think that every majestic oak at Brazos Bend started as a seed. Big things often have small beginnings. Not every seed that randomly falls into the ground or that we plant will grow or survive the ravages of time, but some will. And those that do will provide shade for people we may never meet.
Tree up CloseThe next time you visit the Coastal Plains of Texas, make it a point to visit Brazos Bend State Park, if for no other reason than to enjoy the trees and to sit under their shade. These trees are a Texas treasure and will continue to provide enjoyment to park visitors for years to come. And, if you are so inspired, go home and plant a tree that will grow to provide shade for people you may never meet.

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Mission Hike and Bike Trails

I grew up in the small town of Mission, located just a few miles north of the Rio Grande River. In the 1950’s, Mission was the South Texas version of Mayberry and was the setting for my childhood of fun adventures and misadventures — everything from climbing mesquite trees to playing Cowboys and Indians and unintentionally starting a one-alarm fire.
IMG_3883Mission has some great mountain bike trails not far from where I grew up. The Mission Hike and Bike Trails offer 5 miles of paved trails and 6 miles of single track trails. These trails are easily accessed from the trailhead parking lot located on Conway Avenue just south of Highway 183.
IMG_2720The paved trail winds its way through the brush and along an irrigation canal all the way to the terminus at the World Birding Center at Bentson State Park. This is a nice trail for road cyclists, walkers, and runners. Bentson State Park is certainly worth a visit. I spent many nights hiking and camping at Bentson as a Boy Scout.
IMG_2724The single track trails are fantastic. Kudos to the Mission Trails Club for maintaining these trails. These winding and narrow hard-packed trails are great for trail runners and all levels of mountain bikers, from beginners to expert riders. All of the trails are clearly marked, indicate the level of expertise needed to enjoy the trail, and wind their way through cactus and mesquite — great motivators for not losing your balance.
Final StretchI logged 17 miles on the morning of my first ride and enjoyed every minute. I had so much fun that I headed back to the trails after lunch to ride a bit more. I’m glad I did. I tried out some of the more difficult trails and had an absolute blast. I also rode down the paved trail to the World Birding Center and enjoyed a pleasant ride through Bentson State Park.
End of the TrailIf you enjoy mountain biking and are headed to South Texas, I encourage you to visit the Mission Hike and Bike Trails. You won’t be disappointed. I will never head south again without my mountain bike. I have enjoyed riding the trails near my hometown more than once and look forward to riding them again.

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Cowboy Proverbs

Cowboys — the very mention of the word stirs the imagination. From the earliest days of film, cowboys have been the subject of many a Hollywood movie. As a kid, I loved cowboy movies and made it a goal to watch every movie that featured John Wayne. I still enjoy watching the Duke’s movies.
the-commancheros-the-dukeMy grandfather was born and raised on a cattle ranch near San Diego, Texas. He told me stories of working as a cowhand on a ranch owned by George Washington West — the cattle rancher who developed the town that bears his name. Today, George West is the county seat of Live Oak County and regarded as the storytelling capital of Texas.

Over the years I have collected Cowboy Proverbs — practical no-nonsense wisdom gleaned by men who lived life in the saddle in rough and tough places. While on a trip to Big Bend, my wife and I discussed what the Old Testament Book of Proverbs might have looked like if it had been written by cowboys instead of guys like Solomon.

Here is a sampling of some my favorite Cowboy Proverbs and companion wisdom from the Old Testament Book of Proverbs. Striking similarities.

• Never miss a good chance to shut up. | “Even a fool who keeps silent is considered wise; when he closes his lips, he is deemed intelligent.” Proverbs 17:28

• The best way to keep your word is not to give it foolishly. | “It is a snare to say rashly, “It is holy,” and to reflect only after making vows.” Proverbs 20:25

• Nobody ever drowned himself in his own sweat. | “In all toil there is profit, but mere talk tends only to poverty.” Proverbs 14:23

• If you work for a man, ride for his brand. Treat his cattle as if they were your own. | “Whoever tends a fig tree will eat its fruit, and he who guards his master will be honored.” Proverbs 27:18

• Honesty is not something you should flirt with. You should be married to it. | “Whoever speaks the truth gives honest evidence, but a false witness utters deceit.” Proverbs 12:17

• Most folks are like a bob-wire fence. They have their good points. | “Even a child makes himself known by his acts, by whether his conduct is pure and upright.” Proverbs 20:11

• The quickest way to double your money is to fold it over and put it back in your pocket. | “Be not one of those who give pledges, who put up security for debts.” Proverbs 22:26

• Too much debt doubles the weight on your horse and puts another in control of the reins. | “The rich rules over the poor, and the borrower is the slave of the lender.” Proverbs 22:7

• A person who agrees with all your palaver is either a fool or he’s gettin’ ready to skin ya. | “A lying tongue hates its victims, and a flattering mouth works ruin.” Proverbs 26:28

• Don’t get mad at somebody who knows more’n you do. It ain’t their fault. | “Give instruction to a wise man, and he will be still wiser; teach a righteous man, and he will increase in learning.” Proverbs 9:9

• Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. | “Let the wise hear and increase in learning, and the one who understands obtain guidance.” Proverbs 1:5

And, here is one final nugget of cowboy wisdom — Don’t squat with your spurs on!

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The Garden of Thorns

I have a very short list of must-watch television programs. At the top of that list is Texas Country Reporter. I have been a big fan of this program for years. I think that Bob Phillips, the host, is one of the best storytellers around. Phillips and his film crew travel the Lone Star State to film stories of interesting places and fascinating people.
garden-of-thornsOne of my favorite TCR segments is an interview that Phillips did with Texas artist and sculptor Bill Worrell who makes his home near Mason, Texas. Bill is well-known to those who appreciate southwest and Native American inspired art.

What I found especially interesting about Worrell is what he refers to as “his greatest work and latest creation.”  It’s not what you might think — one of his expensive and much-sought-after works of art. Instead it is what he calls his Garden of Thorns.

Worrell set aside a small tract of land on his property, a place, he explained, where he “decided to bury a lot of garbage and junk from my past.” As Worrell and Phillips approached the Garden of Thorns, it looked like a “Boothill for Bad Habits” complete with weeds, thorns, and thistles among the headstones.
Garden of Thorns - BlameAs Worrell walked into the barbed-wire enclosure, he approached a headstone with the word “Blame” chiseled into the stone. “Let’s take blame here, for example,” he told Phillips. “Probably somewhere around 1940 is when I started blaming everybody else for the bad things that happened to me. Somewhere around 1983 I realized that I’m the person to blame for things going wrong in my life. So, I changed.”

Worrell pointed out that he had also buried Hate and Fear and Shame, among other things. “So, Bill,” asked Phillips, “what you’re telling me is that you buried all your bad habits, your bad thoughts, all that?” Worrell replied, “Uh, not all of them but many of them. Still have some to go.” Worrell knows that he still has, what he calls, “thorns in the flesh” to deal with. But the good thing is that he is taking intentional steps to deal with those things.
garden-of-thorns-trioI like Worrell’s Garden of Thorns and agree with his reason for burying the garbage and junk from his past there. “I decided,” said Worrell, “symbolically we ought to bury this stuff.” He’s right. It might do us all some good to have our own Garden of Thorns, a place where we can toss aside the kind of stuff that can wreck and ruin our lives.

As Worrell and Phillips walked away from the Garden of Thorns, Worrell remarked, “You know, Bob, I think that burying all this stuff has made me an even better artist than I was before.” Just imagine how much better we might be if we symbolically buried the garbage and junk of our own lives and left it there to rot and decay.